pms Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 thank god for belay caves. looks spicy, but what a great looking climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 How long was the approach to the Pearly Gates? About an hour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 anyone been up there since it got warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Nice Job guys. We did it today 1/28/07 and Kurt Haire thought the conditions were way better than when you did it a couple of weeks ago. We finished it in 5 pitches and then rapped down in four double rope raps. It's in good condition. We'll return your dropped quickdraw if you guys can find my dropped v-threader:-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 Nice, Kyle. Good to hear theres still some ice there now. Â Did you guys do the exit moves to top out on the wall? B/c those were not to be missed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 We stopped when the ice ended and and found wrap slings around a tree. Looked to be an easy snow slope slog to the top above us. We never did any traversing left as you guys mentioned in your post; so I'm wondering if we'd topped out further to your right because there didn't appear to be any place for an unprotected 5.9+ chimney sickness above us. Loved that belay cave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 cool. maybe you finished via the "white fright" slabs above the country club ramp? those look fat this year. Â leavenworth, land of wi3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Rolf, I think you're correct because the second rap took us down the regular White Slabs summer route. What did Peter and Dan finish on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 when dan and i did it, white fright wasn't an option and we scooted left on country club and then up the chimney. after talking with dan, i think he and peter did it that way as well, due to fading light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 right - Kyle and I finished on White Fright. Talked with Dan, who said they could not have anchored a belay for that line two weeks ago. Well, it's obese ice now (gladly accepted the longest screws I can find to buy these days) and the direct finish is sweet climbing. Ice on the first two pitches is more than twice the thickness of two weeks ago - comforting. Â also - rapping down the White Slabs summer rock route - looks like that line could provide some superb-quality "classic" mixed climbing. By "classic" I mean less than vertical - no figure-4 required... Lotsa clean cracks to sew up - might have to go back for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 EmKay and I did this on Feb 1, Awe inspiring route in perfect conditions. Did it in 4 pitches and soloed the snow in the upper bowl to top out. 1st pitch 40m to a pin rap anchor, 3-4 R with thin sparse screws. 2nd pitch 4 R, 55m to 80deg even thinner sparser screws and some rotten ice, the crux pitch, belay was questionable, might have been better to simul up to better ice another 25'. 3rd pitch 3-4, 55m, went past the cave another 40', some thin ice at first but then got fat, went to an alcove with a red camalot crack. 4th pitch 3-4, 60m, bomber fat ice. Soloed steep snow bowl at the top, 45-50 deg, about 70m. I went up and right and finished with an interesting dry tool rock/snow gully/chimney (5.5) to get to the upper ridge, pick cams and stemming. Emkay soloed to the left in a snow gully to top out just above the O.S. finish. I traversed the ridge from where I went right, nice alpine ambiance. Â Didn't see any rap anchors after the first pitch so we walked off the regular O.S. descent. Very fun, some interesting drytool down climbing and perfect styrofoam crust in an avy gully. Found the traverse around to the east side even though neither of us had been there in over 5 years. A little more tooling and perfect snow on the steep slabs back to the base. Would have been scary abakalovs, much better and funner to walk off. Ice pretty thin on first 2-1/2 pitches, totally rocked my tools. Â Left the car at 5:30A, full moon on the trail, didn't even need headlamps, cross creek at dawn, back to packs at base by 3:30P. Boot pack trail to the creek crossing, snow steps to the base. Clear day, about 1-1/2 hrs of sun on the route but at an angle so the dihedrals and features were in the shade. The sun didn't affect the ice adversely. Totally classic, EmKay says he thinks it forms about once every 20 years. Â Twin 60's, (thought we might rap) in retrospect a single 60 would be better. 12 or so express screws, 4 of them stubbies. 2 yates screamers but should have had at least 5 6 assorted pins, never used 6 nuts, never used 6 cams, used 2 Â better TR when EmKay brings the camera over for download. Â All you CC klimber dawgs, git up off the couch and H-O-O-K I-T U-P!!!!!!!! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Gary Y and I did the North Dihedral Direct today and found it to be very difficult mixed and thin ice. Full TR should be up tommorrow< wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Way to go Gary and Wayne! I look forward to seeing the full TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 Nice Wayne. That line looked cool. Looking forward to pics and shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Tr for N. Dihedral is now up in Alpine Lakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 What Leavenworth would look like if it was covered in dam water.   BIG ICE!!!! on snow creek wall   1/2 way up the crux 2nd pitch, puttin' in screws that won't hold a fall.   At the belay, top of 2nd pitch. "Let's not test this belay OK?"   4th pitch, phat ice and exposure.   summit ridge scenery   Moon River on the return.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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