slothrop Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Trip: Abiel Peak - North Face Date: 1/13/2007 Trip Report: Ben (wbk), Mike (colt45), and I climbed a route on the left side of Abiel Peak's North Face on Jan. 13. After looking through the threads from last year, I think we climbed the route Mark_L describes. After a pitch of ice, we went right up a broad, curving snow gully where the line in his photo bends left: There was only one 200-foot pitch of WI3 on this climb, with some snow (squeaky to sugary) the rest of the way up. It was Mike's first time ice climbing and he got introduced to two important aspects of the sport: suffering in the cold and getting hit by chunks of ice. Our route didn't turn out to be that great--just one pitch of ice--but it was good to get out. A lot of other lines on Abiel are lookin' good. We left our skis and extra gear in the trees above the lake, then carried packs up and over, descending the West Ridge to an obvious wide gully, an easy downclimb that we wished we'd lugged our boards up for. After sifting through the threads from last year's activity and AlpineDave's page, I put together this topo showing all the routes on the North Face (click for larger version): Gear Notes: 4-5 shorter screws, picket, no pins. Screamers and double slings. First belay is a tree and a screw in the best ice of the route, at 200 feet. Approach Notes: Up Annette Lake trail, then turn right at the Iron Horse trail (road) to the open slopes on the right side of Humpback Creek. Good ski route, not so good on a snowboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Nice! Thanks for the report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Here's a shot from the right pitch (photo credit-Mike Schmit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 That looks nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 More like Snice!! Looks good up there these days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 You guys and your ice climbing.....burly! Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 I like that 3rd shot - very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Cool! Quite the hidden gem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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