G-spotter Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Trip: Fraser Valley - Roadside Ice FAs Date: 1/13/2007 Trip Report: So yeah, it's cold. Everything is pretty much kinda sorta in. Except for Bridal Falls, which ain't. But Decent Divorce and Never a Bride are. We went to Jarvis Bluffs. Shaun and Dwayne tried NW Passage. Wes and I tried something new on the left side of the NW Passage bluff. Wes and I climbed this rig in three pitches: 60m WI2, 35m WI3, 35m WI3. Tree belays. Soaking wet. Route is now named "Liquid Crystal". Could maybe squeeze a WI4 out of it by climbing direct on all 3 tiers. Descent via walk down on climbers' left. No raps. Approach 15 minutes of scree. 150m left of NW Passage and 150m right of Another Day. Pretty obvious from Highway 5 when driving by and scoping. Looking up p1 Wes on P3 So Shaun and Dwayne tried NW Passage and the first pitch was running with water. Then they tried mixed climbing left of NW Pass to reach some ice up high on the open face, but the gear was shite and Shaun didn't have any baby angles, so they bailed off a one-nut anchor or something scary like that. After we were all done and back at the car it was only noon-thirty so we went looking for a consolation prize for Shaun and Dwayne. I remembered some unclimbed roadside ice past Trojan Horse so we drove over and it was there. About 3km past Trojan Horse and maybe 300m before the Sasquatch boat launch day-use area fork in the road, at an abandoned roadside gravel pit.. A lot of the ice was thin but Shaun led this small pillar of chandeliery ice above a thin slab. WI4ish. 30m. I don't know what he finally decided to call it. Approach = 1 minute from parked car. Gear was shite for most of the route. Belay and rappel from tree. Wes and Dwayne TR'ed it. I did not because all of my gear was still frozen solid from the other route. The new route on the right and unclimbed thin ice on the left, from the road. Shaun stemming on the crux pillar. Gear Notes: Car, stubbies, GoreTex, baby angles for unclimbed mixed line. Approach Notes: Drive to base, roadside routes. Bring a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 went out today to do some soloing, route chosen near Hwy 7 was in the sun, got to the base, 1/3 of it fell off (but fortunately missed me), decided i didn't feel like soloing, came home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 16, 2007 Author Share Posted January 16, 2007 Ok so Shaun named the new route at Harrison "EpicCenter" (pronounced like epicenter but with an extra C) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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