layton Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 Did it w/Necronomicon yesterday. Met FixedPin and IanE(sp) near the top. We left from the car, they camped up high. Short approach. Amazing climbing, lots of little cruxes. Kinda like a really really long 2nd coulior on Dragontail. Fixed pin and party took a different finish than we did (off route). Haha. Actually, it's all about the same (unless you get screwed). As for the D- rating, i'm sure it's very conditions dependant, but it had me worked at the end way more than some of his D+, or TD routes. The best part is the vomit inducing 1st view of the mountain when you drive up. You're like, "Oh my God there's no way I can do that." The climb gets less and less steep as you approach it. It is the weirdest "aspect changer" I've ever seen. Conditions were soft snow w/neve, even one water ice belay. It was like, WTF, screws? We didn't bring pickets, maybe they'd help? Rather have tiny rock gear that holds more. Bring route/desent info along especially photos lest you be fucked. Bring rock gear, esp pins. I know i said I like to give beta so I get it back, but this one is a little better w/some mystery. Execpt I must say, don't get fucked on the desent. And don't underestimate the route. I thought about soloing it. No way. The actual coulior maybe, but not the approach or desent. I figured 2 hours max in the coulior, 3 hours on the approach (correct), 3 hours down. Double that (approx 15 hours car to car). Bring 2 ropes or a rap line. We climbed on one 8.0mm rope folded in half and simuled the whole thing. But, we'd have a much more interesting desent. The desent is rather, uh.....FUN! Thank you Fixed Pin and IanE(sp?) for teaming up with us on the desent. That sped shit up, eh? Ever part of yesterday was fun, full-on, and just a great day in the moutains. The drive home was hell unleashed. I'll try n' get photos. It's really neat lookin'. We saw a party heading to the Joffre Coulior. Looked like fun, but harder to get into. Did you guys get off by dark? Did you die? oh yeah, one more thing... ...NECRO CLIMBED IT W/A BROKEN RIB!!!!!! HARDMAN! Seriously. That's some pain tolerance for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 Way to go Mr. Layton. When I die and come back I hope I am you. We are leaving for the Bugs in 30 minutes sure you dont want a ride? Have a good man. Lets climb when I get back. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 10, 2002 Author Share Posted August 10, 2002 quote: Have a good man. Uh....no thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 Layton is ripping thru AlpineSelect....Go Man go... You should try some of Kobus' routes on Judge Howay next, or Pacemaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 I am assuming Mr. Layton doesn't have a job or class this summer... I'm jealous, way too go man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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