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layton

Unselected Routes of SW B.C.

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So, what routes or mountains that are "good" are missing from McLanes guide?

 

I know there are some like winter routes on the Cheam Peaks, Whitecap Pk, and Rideout/Payne cirque. Any more cool ice-capades. What about rock-climbs? As if my list isn't big enough...

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Routes that appear to offer worthwhile climbs but for reasons of lack of info, poor access, or just plain lack of space were neglected in McLane's guide: NE butress of North Illusion, E ridge of MacDonald, S face of Northgraves, LDB near Slesse, the four or five large Kobus Barnard routes on Judge Howay, W face of Blanshard, E ridge of Needle, N buttress of Reh (AlpineK knows what I'm 'talkin bout here [Wink] ), NE butress of Urquart, and that's just rock routes in the vicinity of the Fraser Valley! Have fun and report back! [big Drink]

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Yeah the N buttress of Reh rules!

 

[ 08-04-2002, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: AlpineK ]

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Ninja Tiger Arete on Scuzzy.

 

MCLane deselected a lot of routes based on mainly his lack of a good photo of the route.....

 

PS A new 6 pitch 5.10 route just got climbed on Ashlu. There is a topo in the new route book in Climb-On in Squamish.

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BASTARDS!

 

Life may not be fair, but Alpine Climbing sure loves to rub salt in the wound. Not a good sport for folks who can only have things go there way. Good way to stock up on Karma for the next life.

 

Did they like the climb they did on Ashlu? Two approaches, one broken partner, and more dirt and shrub grabbing than I can face. Who did it, and where do they live...

 

...not that I was planning on doing Ashlu or a new route on it or anything.

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I dunno who they are but the guy in Squamish who told me ashlu was CHOSS has now changed his tune.

 

They did the SE buttress I think. Right of the Serl McNab up a vague nose just right of some black streaks in the centre of the wall and left of a lower angle area. 6x60m pitches.

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Check bivouac for Urquhart, looks blah blah from the West. I assume there is a steeper aspect?

Beckey's guide says Northgraves is "fuckin' heinous dude." HAve you done it? I have no idea what LBD mean, "lower buttress direct"? Isn't that in the guide. I've had my eye on Illusion due to Beckey's guide. Howay is a big scary moutain with my name all over that mother, and epic too. Blanshard looks pretty, kinda like a chair peak. The needle looked neat. Reh looked like a nice jaunt. I also discovered stone rabbit from that dude Kobus's website. That dude is hard-core, and a good photographer. Scuzzy looked neat too Dru.

 

See I'm in "school", I did my "homework".

 

Any more assignments?

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quote:

Originally posted by michael_layton:

Check bivouac for Urquhart, looks blah blah from the West. I assume there is a steeper aspect?

Beckey's guide says Northgraves is "fuckin' heinous dude." HAve you done it? I have no idea what LBD mean, "lower buttress direct"? Isn't that in the guide. I've had my eye on Illusion due to Beckey's guide. Howay is a big scary moutain with my name all over that mother, and epic too. Blanshard looks pretty, kinda like a chair peak. The needle looked neat. Reh looked like a nice jaunt. I also discovered stone rabbit from that dude Kobus's website. That dude is hard-core, and a good photographer. Scuzzy looked neat too Dru.

 

See I'm in "school", I did my "homework".

 

Any more assignments?

ldb = labour day buttress

 

nesakwatch notch route?

 

urquhart = the east face is steep one. maxim de jong did an 18 pitch 5.10a A3 there in '88...unrepeated

 

north buttress of grimface?

 

minute hand?

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Layton you would probably enjoy North Face of Plinth, I think.

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Haven't had time to look up all the routes mentioned. I've always paused while guide book flippin' at the neswatch notch route. No photo, and in McLane's guide, it is devoid of the "ice" mentioned in beckey. I've got an old xerox for grimface, I think it's a don serl article. Saw some cool articles on James Turner, Judge Howay, Arctic Wing on Slesse, and others. Our CAJ selection is very poor at the WWU library. I'm at the public library right now waiting for my Dad to finish his research. Maybe they've got some info.

 

Wait, I checked em out. Nice job on Plinth!

 

More homework...I may have a job soon [hell no] so I may have to audit this class.

 

[ 08-13-2002, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

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quote:

Originally posted by michael_layton:

Haven't had time to look up all the routes mentioned. I've always paused while guide book flippin' at the neswatch notch route. No photo, and in McLane's guide, it is devoid of the "ice" mentioned in beckey. I've got an old xerox for grimface, I think it's a don serl article. Saw some cool articles on James Turner, Judge Howay, Arctic Wing on Slesse, and others. Our CAJ selection is very poor at the WWU library. I'm at the public library right now waiting for my Dad to finish his research. Maybe they've got some info.

 

Wait, I checked em out. Nice job on Plinth!

 

More homework...I may have a job soon
[hell no]
so I may have to audit this class.

here is a shot of the Notch...

-

it is usually full of snow/ice until sometime in July then melts out...but you could climb rock (maybe) to the same point...

 

[ 08-14-2002, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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