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random leavenworth conditions


rat

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drury--fat but looking a bit off. approach pitches look plastered.

 

pencil--fat. the approach and overhead gullies haven't slid. i can't there until next week so someone please pack a trail. fording the river upstream near swiftwater looks dicey.

 

drip wall--no, nada, nothing.

 

hidden lake--probably fat but also probably buried under new snow.

 

south aspect of icicle river valley--mostly melted out but with the usual mixed potential. might rebuild quickly.

 

snow creek wall--the line we did near white slabs direct/country club looks like it might be ok.

 

dog dome--dike looks ok.

 

rat creek climbs--in. snowy.

 

hubba hubba and environs--in. lots of avy debris.

 

wet and wild--looks good. worth the wallow?

 

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climbed a route on the center of icicle buttress yesterday. I believe its called chicken gully, dunno. Fun route, 4 pitches with easy walk off. Not very hard but a little techy. pitch one is all ice and snow, pitch two starts with some snow the thin little mixed section like m3ish if you head into corner.Pitch 3 is has best ice, watch for big sluffs of cliff between tree and ice. Last pitch is 5.8ish boulder move off belay to easy snow and ice.

 

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The Drip at the Drip wall looked in!!!

Anyone get on it? It looks like the fang in CO!

Will this warm spell doom leavenworth ice?

It's cool leavenworth is having a good season. When I learned to climb in the 80's, Leavenworth was always money for ice. With gloal warming, I pretty much gave up on it for the last 7-8 years but it is nice to see a lot of ice again.

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