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Slesse conditions?


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Headin' up to Mt. Slesse in ten days for what we hope is a pleasant time on NE buttress. Hate to carry too much gear though. Anyone know what shape the pocket glacier is in? What's the likelihood of finding a water supply along the route during this time of year?

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ask robertm he just did it. I saw his photos online here yesterday in the what did you climb thread. looked like it was totally there in fine form [laf]

 

Posted by robertm-

 

robertm

Rope Lead

Member # 26

 

posted 07-23-2002 06:02 PM

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NE Buttress of Mt. Si. I don't remember there being a glacier the last time I was up it. I did see some cougars

 

Here are the pics:

 

Pictures

 

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b3076f3f8497

 

[ 07-24-2002, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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We had to climb 5.10 rock to get onto the buttress. The glacier is coming apart at the seams. I would opt to go from the toe if doing it again. A moat & serac blocks access to the bypass ramps. Conditions were excellent. There is no snow on the descent so fill up before the trail (running water). There was a small snow patch at the huge bivy ledge but most likely this will be gone in the next few days.

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The pocket glacier is still very problematic. It took us 2 hours to find a way across and had to pull some serious shennanigans. Another party who happened across bailed due to the complications. I would say take crampons because they will save you a lot of time and spare some scetchy moves. A small tool was essential. There are still several oportunities for water on the route including a 8x4 snowpatch on the big bivy area. Seriously consider the Crossover Pass descent. The descent off the backside is long and terrible. Dont take mountain bikes, take a 2nd car, whatever it takes to do so is worth it. I got a flat tire on the ride out and had to hike many more miles than I wanted to. Feel free to email with specific questions.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

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