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Sky Pilot - TR

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Headed up Sky Pilot Saturday and did the SW Ridge. We saw at least 4 other parties descending the route that day. (12 climbers) At least one party had climbed the NE Face via Gun Sight Gap, which was reportedly good as well. Also passed a few bear poos and a Rock Ptarmigan on the road.


Knowing it would be light until at least 9:30pm, we slept in and took our time driving up to the boulders and didn't start walking until 10:45am. We started meeting other parties descending at noon!


The approach is covered with good solid snow as soon as you cross the creek at the end of the old road. Snow conditions stayed good all day, and the view from the summit was completely unobstructed in all directions.


The snow cover makes for a really nice approach, but I imagine it will be retreating up the slopes pretty quickly now. If you're thinking of heading up there, now's the time I think. I wore crampons (mainly to try out my new anti botte) but most people were just hiking up without a problem.


I can confirm a previous post which mentions a new boulder in the blockade; no longer driveable past the boulders by anything short of a mountain bike. There is also a fixed rope on the 4th class slab at the start of the scramble. I assume this is a relatively new addition, it looks pretty fresh and I've never heard of one on this route before.


In any event, nice day, fun climb.

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FIXED ROPE???? [Mad][Mad][Mad]


You shoulda unfixed it.


[ 06-24-2002, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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Originally posted by Dru:



You shoulda
fixed it.

Yeah, I s'pose I shoulda. It was such a highway up there Saturday that it just didn't have the impact it ought to have.


I suspect it'll be gone soon enough though.

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