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The ultimate Everything


kevbone

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Its a nice climb, but I think it is overrated and certainly over-run. I've done it twice and had plenty of company both times. It has its place a nice, moderate, well-protected lead (some say over protected). Ideal for one of your first 5.9-ish multi-pitches.

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I climbed the ultimate dissapointment a while back and thought it sucked. lots of 35-50 ft pitches with 1/2 a move of 5.8, and way too much hiking in between pitches. its hard not to identify it as a money maker for the climbing guides in town. with that being said I think its still a bit more entertaining than the squamish buttress.

 

if you want a moderate low commitment route up the chief i would recommend Stairway to Heaven. its not the raddest route around, but you get a nice tour of a number of different crags, a wee bit of sustained climbing, and the pitches above bellygood are pretty damn cool.

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I climbed the route last year with Jim Spencer. It's all right, not great, but definitely worth doing. Not that much exposure, a few too many bolts, but the rock is clean for the most part. We used The Sickle and Boomstick for the approach pitches up the apron, if my memory serves me. I didn't mind the little hike up through the forest. Maybe I'm easy to please, but I had a good time. It took us less than four hours to do the 10 pitches. That put us on the summit at 2 pm with enough time to hike down, do lunch and go out to do two more pitches at Campground Wall. That remains my record for pitches in a day at 17.

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I climbed the ultimate dissapointment a while back and thought it sucked. lots of 35-50 ft pitches with 1/2 a move of 5.8, and way too much hiking in between pitches. its hard not to identify it as a money maker for the climbing guides in town. with that being said I think its still a bit more entertaining than the squamish buttress.

 

if you want a moderate low commitment route up the chief i would recommend Stairway to Heaven. its not the raddest route around, but you get a nice tour of a number of different crags, a wee bit of sustained climbing, and the pitches above bellygood are pretty damn cool.

 

 

1/2 a move of 5.8? You must climb 5.13 on a regular basis to make that comment.

 

I personaly thought the bolting job on the first pitch was bogus. The third bolt is about 12 inchs to high.

Did you not know what you were getting into? As far as what kind of climbing? I would repeat the route anytime myself.

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Nobody cares that you did the route or whether you would repeat it or not. It sounds pretty fucking geh to me.

 

Ya ok Dirty ferry. Why don’t you "derilick my balls". I obviously don’t care if you care.

 

PS: You really should climb the route...wait...you can’t. Your ego stops you.

 

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Nobody cares that you did the route or whether you would repeat it or not. It sounds pretty fucking geh to me.

 

You're only speaking for 1 person dirty. Yourself. If you really do not care, why did you post anything. I mean to say if you really don't give A flying fuck why not just keep it to yourself?

 

I want to see pictures !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

CBS? Kevbone? Anyone?

 

Pics of long clean granite slabs and lines dudes, bring on the winter stoke!

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