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  • 3 weeks later...

Don at least 3 or 4 separate people have reported to me that the rock was loose and rubble maybe they were just looking from the east ridge or they were backing off on the 2nd pitch I don't know. Maybe they were just running a disinformation strategy? "Oh yeah the Bugaboos - horrible rubble - don't go near them".

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19 years ago is a while back, and my memory might be hazy, so i pulled out my photos. sure enough, lots of flakes, some loose "chunks" in the edges of the flake systems, but almost no evidence of loose rock lying on ledges. plenty of square-cut holds, mostly big sweeps of very sound looking rock. a long way between runners, which tells me it's mostly not harder than 5.8.

go climb the route and post the real story - i dunno, maybe it IS choss...

better yet, force a direct exit right, around or thru the overhangs where we allowed ourselves to get pushed left to the exit chimney. i think i can see possibilities in a couple of the photos. that'd be a step forward. it IS a new century...

cheers, don

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dru: choss? CHOSS? and how would anyone know?

my recollection: 1st pitch steep, solid, 1/2 ropelength. then a rubbley ramp, but this is pretty much a walk up and left. then straight up thru center of face: highly flakey terrain, mostly right facing corners, dihedral, flakes, etc. u gotta be careful, for sure - this is not diedre or snake, but it's not like flirting with death, it's using light hands and feet. it's mountaineering. the NW route on canadian border peak is WAY scarier, and tons of not-very-experienced people climb that. (of course, a few of them get hurt...) that's maybe 3 pitches, then 2 pitches of the superb stuff in the photo. then a traverse left to the finishing dihedral, more fine rock, in fact tight to find pro. i don't remember the final corner being consistently hard, or loose, but it had one short vertical, icy, handcrack that gave the crux.

and u CAN see waddington from the top...

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