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Sloan Non-TR

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After various partners jammed and others missed the boat I ended up driving up to Gold Bridge alone. Snowline way high in the south Chilcotins, like 7000'. Bugs horrible at about 5000' so slept in the car. Got up Sunday AM, bugwhacked through clouds of mosquitoes and blackflies almost too thick to see through, to NE ridge of Sloan. dropped down to cirque on N side and climbed a variant to the Fairley 1983 route avoiding all the steep stuff at the top that Bruce did in favour of easier snow and rock on the right side, basically the NW ridge and face to its immediate left. Summitted, descended. Left crampons sitting on a moraine below the south face and had to hike back up 2 hrs to get them [Mad] what it took me 10 minutes to glissade down.


Hiked out (more crazy bugs and Ault Creek flooding), back at car after about 13.5 hr day. Drove to Gold Bridge. Bar and restaurant closed. Drove to Lillooet. Everything closed by the time I got there. Slept in car by the Fraser River halfway down to Lytton, and went to Canyon Alpine Monday Am for the Truckers Special. First time in a long time I could eat the whole thing and still be hungry!


Saw no one in the mountains the whole weekend [smile]


However, saw about 25 deer, 1 moose, 1 honey-colored black bear, and 1 humongous pile of cougar(?) shit containing nothing but deer hair and bone fragments.


Beer sure tasted good when I got home.

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