Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Thought this guy deserved a thread of its own. Posted on another thread by Travis!:------------------------Limestone sporto cliff eh? How about basalt? Talked to a guy at Murrin Sunday who just climbed the Black Dyke...Free. Free at last, bolted all the way with the possibility of aiding the 5.12 and 5.13 pitches on bolts. Now that's a sport climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Peter Pubic I already had a thread going a week ago on this. Now that we know it is bolted we know why someone was able to freee it. I am not down with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Actually Cavey You'd be down for sure! Down on the ground with your jaw open in astonishment. Anyway you slice it hanging on thru that roof is an amazing thing. Certainly the route more impressive as a free route than an loose funky aid one. I remember Eric Wienstien once telling me that anyone can climb 5.11. This was back when there were very few 5.12s. I wonder what he'd have thought of 5.13! [ 06-11-2002, 10:27 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Actually Cavey You'd be down for sure! Down on the ground with your jaw open in astonishment. Anyway you slice it hanging on thru that roof is an amazing thing. Certainly the route more impressive as a free route than an loose funky aid one. I remember Eric Wienstien once telling me that anyone can climb 5.11. This was back when there were very few 5.12s. I wonder what he'd think of 5.13! I am not impressed with the style nor would I be astonished. I disagree and think it should be left as a challenging aid route. Your snide\hidden sarcasm can suck my cock too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Be nice. Allison come help me please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Nice is not in my vocabulary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Ray on left Peter Pubic on right flossing his teeth with pubic hairs. Hence his name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 :)http://www.brainemail.com/ [ 06-11-2002, 10:49 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 I heard it was Matt Maddaloni that is working it and freeing it (has not linked the whole thing yet). Most of the Dyke was bolted in the early 90s by Dean Hart anyways as his version of the Free Dyke that starts up Movin to Montana and ttraverses in above the roof (ignored in guidebooks by McLane for silly reasons). Matts version just takes in bottom roof. Matt is a hard boulderer, trad and aid climber (FAs of Grade VI A4+s on Baffin and in Powell River and 5.12+ trad routes) not just a sporto. Im certain it is not your average clip up. When Dean bolted the upper sections he noted it was getting pretty bashed up from aid climbing. I say better to have a bolt and reduce further rock damage than have huge flaring pin scars like on Rurp Riot which is now more of a "baby angle bash". The Dyke going free does not in any way reduce the cool aid routes available to Squamish climbers anyways. Lots of nailing available if you dig it. Under The Gun still reportedly waiting for 2nd ascent. On that one the bolts are all duct taped over the hanger so you cant cheater stickclip them That said Im certain if the Hubers ever had come to Squamish they would have done the Dyke free on the A3 aid gear. But Squamish is an ethical wasteland where everyone bolts what they feel like, and uses fixed ropes so they can go to the bar at night, and drinks beer and smokes dope. People even continue to aid up classic free lines like U wall if they want to. In fact some people at Squamish even do odd shit like bolt free on lead with powerdrills and drytool up routes chipped by deluded sport climbers back in the 80s. Ethix Shmethix if you can free it without using the bolts I say chop em. Its all good anyways. [ 06-11-2002, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Peter Pubic I already had a thread going a week ago on this. Now that we know it is bolted we know why someone was able to freee it. I am not down with that. Don't know anything about this route other than what has been said over the past week or so. So basically, someone has turned a challenging aid route into a bolted sport route? If that is the case, I would have to side with the Caveman. Little help for the uneducated, please... Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Dru you kill me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Peter Pubic I already had a thread going a week ago on this. Now that we know it is bolted we know why someone was able to freee it. I am not down with that. Don't know anything about this route other than what has been said over the past week or so. So basically, someone has turned a challenging aid route into a bolted sport route? If that is the case, I would have to side with the Caveman. Little help for the uneducated, please... Greg I think Dru put more insight into. I will stop bashing for now hehe. Someone has to though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 One thing Dru didn't mention was danger to those below from loose rock. Especially if people are nailing it! [ 06-11-2002, 10:53 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 How many times have you done this route Pubic? How do you know there is danger from loose rock? What pitches induce rockfall when nailed? How many routes are below the Black Dyke? Where is CrazyJz to attest to this. He has done the route. [ 06-11-2002, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Hurry Allison I need you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Hurry Allison I need you!(Forgot the thumbs up!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Hurry Allison I need you!(Forgot the thumbs up!) What's the matter, jaw getting tired from all that headbobbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: One thing Dru didn't mention was danger to those below from loose rock. Especially if people are nailing it! You should never climb under anyone aid climbing or multipitching on the Chief anyways. Climbing Basalt is always choss just like at Vantage. Except on the BD the columns are horizontally oriented. even if it is bolted holds are gonna break off all the time just like when its being nailed. Bolts wont change that. good thing the rockfall zone at the base has few quality routes anyways so there will not be crowds there. Are you going to free the Dyke now Peter Pudgy? If not why are you spraying about it? Just to yank Ray's chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 No! Just imagining someone freein g that roof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Here is some real spray, Cobra Crack is still defeating all comers, lately Jordan Wright is getting spanked by it. Maybe a crack pitch harder than 14a? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Dru - You forgot the thumbs Up!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Maybe this will help you get your thumb up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Maybe this will help you get your thumb up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Lawgoddess, I dont remember who but I was in a haze of beer drinking. It was a Squishy local is all I can recall... hmm; i kind of get the feeling you like to drink beer, eh? and that's precisely why i was asking - just wondering if it was someone i know up there. some of those local boys are pretty hardcore on the granite! nice work, whoever it was! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 thejawgoddess it was matt maddaloni, learn to read.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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