Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      Thanks for visiting Cascadeclimbers.com.   Yep, we are still going!    Just put a new coat of paint on the site. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Hope you had a great 2021, and wish you the best for 2022 and beyond.  Thanks again for stopping by.
Sign in to follow this  

first ascent [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006

Recommended Posts

Trip: Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA)


Date: 12/28/2006


Trip Report:

What do you do at Banks when it's not "in"?


You go mixed climbing.


Today Matt (NYC007) and I established a new route that is mentioned as a "rumor of ice" in the Washington Ice Guide. It is located between "The Cable" and "H202". We named the route "Brush Master" after it's slight resemblance to Mixed Master (which we just climbed last week). We found no traces of prior ascents.


The route starts on fractured basalt, by the road, left of the ice runnel to gain a snowy ledge. Traverse out right to the icicles and ascend the brushy ramp, protected with many many crappy knifeblades, to thicker ice above. I belayed after about 50m, just after the first ice step (yellow/gray aliens helpful). The last 50' of ice were sunbaked and partially detached, but the sun was shining and it was a great, although quite technical, pitch. After that, one double rope rappel from the now slung bush brought us back to the ground. A nice little mixed route.


Brush Master (click for topo)




Me leading the first mixed crux



Higher up on the sun baked and detached pillar.





A good day out



"Brush Master"

II, 65M

WI4+, 5.7

FA: Kurt Hicks, Matt Cusack


Gear Notes:

An arsenal of knifeblades (8 or so)

small cams

#1 or 2 camalot (optional for last pitch)

a couple screws & screamers


double ropes to rappel



Approach Notes:

Park about 100m south of H202.

Edited by kurthicks

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

nice work you two. looks cool. can you email details re: where its at milepost wise?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet! That makes me look like a wimp and i though i was cool when i did my first ice lead (Devils Punch bowl) today.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
where its at milepost wise?


This is the climb between The Cable and H2O2.


We did our best to clean the brush at the belays and on route, but it is still a little prickly. I think a couple more ascents will result in less brush on the ramp, thus resulting in more ice (since it won't be taken up by the bushes). Also, cleaning the cattails from the ledges will definately help increase the ice.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sweet! :tup:


Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith??


Anyone wanna give me a belay. :wazup:


Or take me over there.

Edited by powderhound

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this