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JosephH

Beacon will be good Thursday - Monday...Who's in?

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Ivan made me think we were going to finally find out if that nut below the lip could hold a fall. Damn nice job keeping it together!

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Ivan made me think we were going to finally find out if that nut below the lip could hold a fall. Damn nice job keeping it together!

 

What nut below what lip?

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On the corner, the lip before the slab, about 2 feet down, I alwyas slot a nut there, and Ivan found the same spot. Yesterday.

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So what exactly broke? Was it the outer half of the right foot in the stance where you place that big stopper below the lip? Or are we talking something around the stopper where your feet are as you start making the moves over the lip? Or was it part of where the stopper itself is placed?

 

Pretty much everything up through the entire sequence getting over the lip is loose to one degree or another - you definitely want to tread lightly as opposed to yarding on any of it...

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Joseph you got with the first one. The big foot when your setting up. Ivan goes "here we go" and starts to pull up and crack goes his foothold. Kinda humerous if I wasn't worried about his wellbeing.

Edited by 112

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Yeah, that baby's been loose all along and it was just a matter of time. I always paid attention that I was on the inside half of it. Not a particularly big deal then.

 

Could have been worse - could have been on one of Ivan's solo laps.

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Could have been worse - could have been on one of Ivan's solo laps.

on the contrary, i found the experience reassuring - the big foot broke but i weighted onto the big handhold and didn't fall - probably woulda needed a new pair of panties if i had been solo at the time though :)

 

odd - perhaps the lack of water contributed to the hold's flakiness? it was one of the only pieces of rock on the route that wasn't pulsing w/ h2o

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the big handhold

 

will come off in the next year.....if you ask me. I quit using it about a year ago.

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the big handhold

 

will come off in the next year.....if you ask me. I quit using it about a year ago.

no doubt - it'll be a different pitch when i'm 60 - kinda adds to the allure

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That foot hold was really loose and someone who liked to climb more or less straight up and used it for a hand hold had marked it with an 'X' earlier in the year. It's amazing it stayed as long as it did; must have tipped your foot to the outside as you went and it was just the luck of the draw.

 

Kevin and I have both felt the big 'horn' handhold is loose as is the big block up and behind it. The whole sequence is over rock that is dubiously put together so do tread lightly...

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climbed the corner w/ ken 2day - very sporty conditions - sopping wet and raining towards evening - we did it mostly as aid - broke a big foothold just below the crux of the money pitch - seeing jim n' jon completed the gonzo-style of the ascent

 

where is the money pitch crux exactly?

 

Great seeing you all out there. Opedyke brought sunshine, hope it stayed with you.

 

 

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money pitch = slab pitch (pitch 2, from the snag ledge to tree ledge)

 

it may be a term of my own devising, i can't remember - it's the most enjoyable pitch imho

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where you make that funky monkey move? kinda over-hang? while i was speed belaying you.... Joseph and Ken mentioned to be aware of a certain chunk. wonder if it was the same one that broke.

 

forgive me for being slow. maybe if you let me LEAD i would remember these routes better ;)

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Opedyke brought sunshine, hope it stayed with you.

the sun was long gone even before jim left - saw one of the cooler things i've beheld at beacon while sitting up at the tree ledge savoring the sogginess - a giant rainbow just a few hundred yards to the east formed by the setting sun hitting the pregnant pouring rain-drops - lingered for about 10 minutes while jim was rapping off the first pitch - most tranquil

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OMgosh! Saw the same incredible rainbow driving back from the gorge, Oregon side. I was going to ask if you had seen it. Amazing... sickie

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where you make that funky monkey move? kinda over-hang? while i was speed belaying you.... Joseph and Ken mentioned to be aware of a certain chunk. wonder if it was the same one that broke.

 

forgive me for being slow. maybe if you let me LEAD i would remember these routes better ;)

 

Let you lead? By all means...you will be leading EVERY time from now on!!!

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where you make that funky monkey move? kinda over-hang? while i was speed belaying you.... Joseph and Ken mentioned to be aware of a certain chunk. wonder if it was the same one that broke.

 

forgive me for being slow. maybe if you let me LEAD i would remember these routes better ;)

 

Let you lead? By all means...you will be leading EVERY time from now on!!!

 

And if he can't make it out you can always give me a shout...

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Looks like some nice weather! I will be there Fri/Sat/Sun and I need a partner.

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I'll be up for it one or two of those days. It should be good out there from tomorrow on. This is it - I'd be getting on it if I wasn't working...

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way to go ivan, breaking a classic route. :laf: from now on I'll remember you as the one who broke se corner.

 

I can just see the se soloers who have that route on speed dial be totally shut down at that spot now.

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