Jump to content

Beacon will be good Thursday - Monday...Who's in?


JosephH

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So what exactly broke? Was it the outer half of the right foot in the stance where you place that big stopper below the lip? Or are we talking something around the stopper where your feet are as you start making the moves over the lip? Or was it part of where the stopper itself is placed?

 

Pretty much everything up through the entire sequence getting over the lip is loose to one degree or another - you definitely want to tread lightly as opposed to yarding on any of it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joseph you got with the first one. The big foot when your setting up. Ivan goes "here we go" and starts to pull up and crack goes his foothold. Kinda humerous if I wasn't worried about his wellbeing.

Edited by 112
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Could have been worse - could have been on one of Ivan's solo laps.

on the contrary, i found the experience reassuring - the big foot broke but i weighted onto the big handhold and didn't fall - probably woulda needed a new pair of panties if i had been solo at the time though :)

 

odd - perhaps the lack of water contributed to the hold's flakiness? it was one of the only pieces of rock on the route that wasn't pulsing w/ h2o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That foot hold was really loose and someone who liked to climb more or less straight up and used it for a hand hold had marked it with an 'X' earlier in the year. It's amazing it stayed as long as it did; must have tipped your foot to the outside as you went and it was just the luck of the draw.

 

Kevin and I have both felt the big 'horn' handhold is loose as is the big block up and behind it. The whole sequence is over rock that is dubiously put together so do tread lightly...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

climbed the corner w/ ken 2day - very sporty conditions - sopping wet and raining towards evening - we did it mostly as aid - broke a big foothold just below the crux of the money pitch - seeing jim n' jon completed the gonzo-style of the ascent

 

where is the money pitch crux exactly?

 

Great seeing you all out there. Opedyke brought sunshine, hope it stayed with you.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Opedyke brought sunshine, hope it stayed with you.

the sun was long gone even before jim left - saw one of the cooler things i've beheld at beacon while sitting up at the tree ledge savoring the sogginess - a giant rainbow just a few hundred yards to the east formed by the setting sun hitting the pregnant pouring rain-drops - lingered for about 10 minutes while jim was rapping off the first pitch - most tranquil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

where you make that funky monkey move? kinda over-hang? while i was speed belaying you.... Joseph and Ken mentioned to be aware of a certain chunk. wonder if it was the same one that broke.

 

forgive me for being slow. maybe if you let me LEAD i would remember these routes better ;)

 

Let you lead? By all means...you will be leading EVERY time from now on!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

where you make that funky monkey move? kinda over-hang? while i was speed belaying you.... Joseph and Ken mentioned to be aware of a certain chunk. wonder if it was the same one that broke.

 

forgive me for being slow. maybe if you let me LEAD i would remember these routes better ;)

 

Let you lead? By all means...you will be leading EVERY time from now on!!!

 

And if he can't make it out you can always give me a shout...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...