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05/10 - Dru, fishstick and Don Serl leave Chilliwack northwestbound at 8 AM. Arrive Tatla lake 4pm. At the Graham Inn we determine that if Don worked there they could offer a "Waddington Guidebook" burger which you would order and it would arrive 6 years later.


By 6Pm we have flown in to "Unnamed Creek" and are set up in Base Camp.


05/11 Up late. Around noon, decide to leave camp and climb a nearby peak for easy warm up. Pk 9400 is chosen as looking easy. Long ski up glacier. Kick steps up headwall to col. Climb SW ridge. Some scary class 3/4 stuff. Summit has cairn. summit reached 5PM. fishstick downclimbs steep coluoir rather than return along the ridge. Downclimb from col to skis. fishstick and Don ski down glacier. Dru walks down glacier carrying his skis after wiping out 5x in 30 meters. Don and fishstick back in camp at 8. Dru back in camp at 9.


05/12 Another easy day hiking up side valley in search of Quartz Peak. Much scoping of routes. Back to camp by 6. Dru cooks dinner. Don and fishstick discover they like Jagermeister.


05/13 Horizontal rain and snow. Dru reads 800 pages of "Dombey and Son" by Charles Dickens.


05/14 Up and away from camp by 9. Climb 3500 feet of snow gullies east of camp on rock hard snow. Follow exposed ridge to summit of Pk 9580. Possible FA?? Endless glissade down 3700 foot south face followed by posthole from hell on isothermal soup back to camp.


05/15 Dru solos pk 8500 while Don lounges in camp and fishstick goes skiiing. Despite Don claiming that Niut Range features choss and lots of it, pk 8500 is composed of bomber granite. North ridge 4th class. descent east ridge class 2. fun cornice jump to regain cirque. Dru leaves skins on and makes it back to camp with only 3 wipeouts.


05/16 Up at 4 AM for attempt on Quartz Peak. East facing couloir turns into soup by 7am. Party opts for adjacent couloir, avoids rock & ice fall, summits pk 9000 at 10 AM. Quartz looks scary so we run away. Dru goes for bum slide down gully. Narrowly misses fishstick and rock. By 1Pm we are back in camp. Realizing storm is approaching and snow conditions suck we fly out by 4pm and spend evening showering and eating Lori Kings fine food.


05/17 Drive back to Vancouver.


05/18, 05/19 Dru climbs in Squamish with Fred and Fern and meets Caveman, Jay and James. Much beer.


05/20 Rain.


[ 05-21-2002, 02:51 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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Great TR Dru, but AK had pics, where are the pics???? [big Grin][Wink]

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All pix are being dropped off for development at the store at 4:30 today. Pix of Dru's tracks leading to craters at every turn will be available by this time next week if not sooner.

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Originally posted by Dru:

Here is a *real* picture of me



damn, dru...last time i saw a mouth like that, it had a hook in it. [big Grin] you old chum, you.

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