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"Lost Rocks" bouldering access (Kalamath,Ca)


Lambone

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I recently visited the Loast Rocks Bouldering area in NorCal. It is pretty spectacular. When I got home I started looking for more info on the area, and realized i went in the wrong way and like a total dolt walked right through the local tribes land(Yurok Tribe), and it sounds like they don't want us beanie wearing pad totin chalk usin boulderers on their beach, although there are no signs or any indication to keep off the land. Anyway, here is the right way to get there:

 

From the Access Fund website:

http://www.accessfund.org/regions/res/CA

 

Lost Rocks Access Alert! To ease access concerns, please enter Lost Rocks from the either the Flinthead Ridge walk-in campground area and use the trail there to reach the boulders or from the southern end at High Bluff. Both trails are off the Coastal Scenic Drive. The less gnarly approach is via High Bluff with just a small 4th class section at the very end where it dumps on to the beach a second time at the true southern edge of Lost Rocks. North along the beach from the Flinthead Trail is private land and Yurok reservation land and is off limits to climbing. The Yurok are very much opposed to climbing on their ancestral lands in Redwood National Park/Lost Rocks. Some individuals are choosing voluntarily not to climb there. It is public land so if you do climb there please be very respectful and practice a leave no trace ethic!

 

Alternative areas for bouldering without access issues: Osagon Rocks in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park—hike 8 miles or ride your mountain bike on a sweet/mellow 25 mile loop, just watch out for elk! Houda Pt. and Moonstone County Park—Just north of Moonstone ½ mile is Houda, bring your surfboard too! Fun beach bouldering, just watch out for loose rock here and there.

 

Also, an interesting article w/photos here:

http://www.northcoastjournal.com/123004/news1230.html

 

It has become common knowledge among local climbers to stay off of Split Rock out of what we have felt is respect to the Yurok. Through conversations with park officials we know to get to the boulders via the Flinthead Ridge Trail and not through the Yurok ceremonial dance ground. The challenges arise when climbers from elsewhere visit the area. There are no signs to indicate which trails to use and which rocks to climb -- invariably trails and rocks that should not be climbed are, and not out of disrespect but because there is no indication that it is not OK. Local climbers thought it could be beneficial to show that we understand that Lost Rocks is sacred to the Yurok and that we want to climb in an informed and respectful way.

 

 

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Seems like the tradition of "find it yourself", is starting to deteriorate on the lost coast, if folks want to write in shiny mags about a spot, there is a price to pay. If you pick up your trash and don't make a spectical things should be ok. But for sure leave the bolt kits at home or you will be out. I had 9yrs climbing on the coast with out a hitch .....

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  • 3 weeks later...

Was there about 6 mos ago and didn't see it as a problem by the normal approach off the road. The tribes don't want the public trashing and/or disrespecting the land so I'd just stay on the trail and don't gawk.

 

When I was there, there were families, people with dogs, and a couple screwing! I sorta think the least of their worries is a beanie wearing gumby if he/she plays it cool and RESPECTS the land. I think it's the rest of the idiots that are really the problem. What a shame.

 

But.... I don't speak for anybody but my dumb ass... guess if it's offically posted (as indicated above), then so be it.

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Apparently the tribe just wants climbers to steer clear of the moouth of the Kalamath and their cerimonial spot. Seems like a fair request.

 

Just trying to spread the awareness.

 

Lost Rocks is never likely to be a crowded climbing area, but nevertheless we should be respectful.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lost Rocks is but one of many quality climbing areas on the Redwood Coast. Currently, climbing is legal in Redwood National Park which contains a large portion of the "Lost Rocks" area. To the north of the park boundary(located just north of the "flake" boulder that was on the cover of "climbing") is Yurok land and private property. The private property owners(Williams) are opposed to any climbing on their property. The Yurok tribe is opposed to all non-indian climbing from Moonstone Beach in Humboldt County to Footsteps Rock and Promontory in Del Norte County. As all of these climbing areas are on "public" land except for the Williams and Yurok land they have remained open to climbing. It is important when visiting Lost Rocks to use the Flint Rock trail or High Bluffs trail and keep climber "visibility" to a minimum. Climbers in this area have for a long time felt that by keeping quiet about the climbing here access isssues will pass us by. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Humboldt county is currently formulating a plan that could ban all climbing on Moonstone Beach County Park at the request of the Yurok tribe. Moonstone has 40-50 history of climbing that could be snuffed out. A decision such as this is likely to affect climbing policy in the local State and National Parks as well. Our local climbing organization will be working with the Access Fund in the future to try and keep these areas open. In the mean time, please keep a low profile in sensitive areas so they stay open!

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  • 11 years later...

I hiked out there in spring of 2018.  EVERYONE out there is just out there for FISHING, that's it. All kinds of hikers hike in and hike all over the beach, from what i have seen.  No signs anywhere indicating anything. 

 

It seems that the Indians have dragged a ton of driftwood and piled it up next to the boulders to discourage climbing - or it just got washed up there???

I kind of think that the tribe is piling up wood to stop the climbing.  I would guess that chalk is what is pissing them off, not climbing. But what do I know.

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