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3 Lost on Mount Hood


cluck

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Just talked to ZigZag Ranger district regarding plans for climbing this weekend. Weather forecast is looking relatively decent and we had planned for the regular bivy at Triangle Moraine area Sat nite w/ SS summit Sun AM. Ranger checked w/ boss if we would be allowed to proceed. Replied they won't prevent us, even if search activities continue. He suggested current avalanche danger is high, also requested we call ZigZag station w/ sitreps.

Given the predicted weather improvement for Sat/Sun, including colder temps, we feel avalanche danger may be acceptable for SS route. Probably SAR teams, if search is still underway, will have been and gone by the time we lug the basecamp up to 9500'.

We feel bad for the missing climbers and have great respect for those searching.

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It seems the best we can hope for is that they're all dug in and waiting for the weather to break. At the least the three climbers are going to be half starved, cold, and beat. But, there is plenty of reason to believe that this could have a good ending. Keep the faith and sincere thanks to everyone that is working this rescue.

Edited by gary_hehn
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A Heartfelt Thank You from Dallas:

 

Thank you so much for the kind and wonderful postings you have made on this blog in the past several days. As one member noted, others are reading your blog, and finding a lot of comfort in your expert opinions and hopeful words.

 

Friends of Brian Hall have set up a fund for the benefit of the rescue teams helping to find Brian, Kelly and Nikko. These funds will be used to replenish funds used for this rescue as well as future rescues, and will serve as a token of our appreciation for those giving their time, expertise, bravery and energy to searches on Mt. Hood.

 

It would be sincerely appreciated if you could please help us get this message out to others in your community. Donations may be made to:

 

Mount Hood Rescue 2006

Dallas National Bank

2725 Turtle Creek Blvd

Dallas, TX 75219

Ivona Rogers 214.224.7370

www.DallasNationalBank.com

 

Thanks again for helping us get Brian, Kelly and Nikko home.

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Earlier today (Thursday 12/14) I had an insightful conversation with a PMR leader. I phoned him offering help in any why. The PMR representative knows me well and he has climbed with my climbing partners and me for many years. He knows that many of us are very intimate with Hood in the Winter, only climb Hood in Winter and have climbed all sides and faces of the mountain. I preface that statement with reason. Hood is my local hill for play and I feel very close and comfortable with what it has to offer. This is not a chest beat post. Please read on.

 

The PMR rep has been on three different sides of Hood in the past six days. He has heard avalanches thundering down from the upper slopes while searching the lower glaciers. Winds gusts are none travelable and visibility at times is nil. The strong winds have loaded the 3+ feet of new snow in massive slabs. Conditions on Hood are at there worst for climbing.

 

Although my heart has been telling me all week to pack up a week of food and supplies, enlist the help of couple of a couple of other competent local mountaineers and strike out on our own in a search effort, with the current conditions and the raging storm happening right now it is not a smart idea.

 

Speaking as a climber this weekend would not be one to attempt an independent search effort on Hood. The recent big snow dump and the strong winds are not conditions worthy of a fun or safe climb. If any of you are thinking of heading up to Hood this weekend please reconsider. The weekend weather forecast calls for a break in the intensity of the storm. It might even be paradise up there on Sunday. My message to all of you who are sick of sitting behind your computer, watching from behind the scenes and are longing to help, please do not.

 

The rescue teams are at full capacity and very rested. They have not been able to venture far above the command posts established at Tilly Jane and Timberline over the past week. Again, they are rested. They are stocked with climbers who live in Oregon and are intimate with all the routes, gulleys and lower drainages of the mountain.

 

Please, allow the rescue teams to do their job, they have the experience and resources to accomplish the effort. Stay home with your family and loved ones. Wrap xmas presents and decorate the house.

 

If you are compelled to venture out on Hood in the next few days, skin around on the lower slopes, keep an eye out for signs of recent climber travel, but especially focus on avi conditions and your own safety.

 

Peace out

 

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Thanks Gaper Jeffy for pasting the link to the story, I too have never heard that one. Can't imagine myself stuck in a small snow cave for that long. The moisture must have been driving those guys nuts.

 

Let’s hope the guys up there brought plenty of food and patients to wait this one out. I believe there are alright and will walk out of this one a few days wiser, a few lbs. lighter, and have a great story to motivate us all on our next adventure out into the mountains.

 

God bless you guys up there.

 

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Not a climber. But I know Brian Hall and want him, Kelly and Nikko back alive. Your posts are encouraging. Thanks! I've followed this thread the entire week and it's been helpful for understanding the terrain and conditions the guys are up against.

 

Thanks, GJ, for the link to the '76 survival story. Especially encouraging. I'm hoping the SAR teams will be able to get back on the mountain in force beginning in the wee hours Saturday morning when the wind and precip are expected to tame down.

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thanks for the great info for those of us here in texas not familiar with mt.hood. i too have been following this post all week and as kelly's next door neighbor i just want to say thank you for keeping us informed and encouraged.

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My thoughts go out to the all the guys up on the hill.

 

MntHigh makes some very good points. The teams that are up there officially are trained, organized and in comunication with each other. Anyone up there that is not part of the official search effort will likely cause confusion and be more of a hinderance. I have seen it happen. The best we can do is stay out of the way and let them do their job.

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If they are dug in and have bivy sacks they stand a good chance as long they stay holed up and hydrated. Being stormed in, even for several days is a survivable situation. If the search gets to the point that volunteers are an option let me know. I live three hours away, have mountain rescue experience, have made several Cascade ascents including Ranier and two trips up Hood.

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Thanks, MH - your post is spot on. The sheriff is going to have his hands full this weekend coordinating the efforts of the many MRA and military teams up there. Believe me, there will be a veritable army of trained, competent, well rested rescuers attacking the mountain from all sides (avalanche conditions permitting).

 

While I appreciate everyone's best intentions and frustration, hoards of good samaritans stomping around the mountain would simply get in the way and make it harder for us to do our work. Or worse, someone might trigger an avalanche and take out a rescue team.

 

Stay home and keep the positive vibes flowing. You ARE already helping by keeping spirits up and giving much-needed encouragement to friends and family of these guys.

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