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s_darris

Yokum Ridge Stories

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Did a search in trip reports and in general on Yokum Ridge...not alot of info or trip reports. I spend alot of time on the hill and don't hear of anyone doing Yokum. I know it's a very condition's dependant route, and it's on my list. Would enjoy hearing anyone's trip report or epics. I remember back in the 80's a friend who had done it telling me " near the top, if you fall, your belayer better jump off the other side" ...

 

 

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try spelling yokum as yocum...

 

it normally sees a few ascents a year as long it comes into condition. there are probably years no one makes it up that route

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never been beyond the first gendarme as that's where the conditions are most important - it's a short step but each time i've been there the rime was like cotton candy - you'dhave to weigh about 15 lbs to get up it then :)

 

i think mike told me marcus donaldson's done it

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wow, that didn't take long. Perhaps I should get back into dry fly fishing. :laf:

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It was heavily rimed and late March or early April when I climbed it - so probably the easiest possible conditions. It was not a hard route, but we did not climb the more imposing gendarmes directly.

 

Note: with rime over a heavy snow cover and only a wee bit of water ice here and there, there was nothing you could call solid pro anywhere from bottom to top except maybe the sling we placed around a gendarme to rappel in the middle portion. We pitched it out, and it came to about 16 or 17 pitches.

 

420yokum.jpg

Bill, topping out.

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bottom line - sounds like skipping the gendarme is your best bet for sucess (and for avoding frustration) - reckon you'll be happier returning to get the gendarmes and failing repeatedly after having at least completed the vast majority of the route in the past.

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Mods this should be in the TR index:

 

This is not a trip report , but a disscussion... If Yocum get's done a couple times per season , seems there would be more TR's..Thanks Marcus and Matt.

Like to hear of someone who did the gendarmes directly , Most seem to skirt them...

 

 

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