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Oregon Alpine Guide


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Hey Billy and Matt. I am in contact with Jeff from time to time. He last told me he was stalled on the project and needed more time away from it all to work again on it. I wish I could give everyone his phone # to encourage you all. I think if people were updating info, on new or exsisting routes, to him ,that may help.If you send me something ,I will send it to him. If he got all hot and started working again it would still be a year or so till you might see the book [Frown]

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I realize this is a bit off the subject, but since you mentioned that you are periodically in touch with Jeff Thomas, it sparked my curiousity.


Last weekend, John Jackson and I went up to attempt Brain Salad Surgery, on Osa Thatcher's Needle at Smith (first ascent, Jeff Thomas). The climb itself looks really good, but the approach pitch was horrifying. I attempted every conceivable line to the base of the climb, but only got about halfway up from the gully. The approach pitch consisted of very crumbly tuff, and my "protection" was, perhaps, adequate to arrest the weight of a #5 Camalot. As much as I wanted to sample the climb, I felt it wisest to continue no further.


The guidebook description states: "Remarkably, this stunningly solid gem rises amidst some of the worst rock on Earth. . . ." This I found to be true. I do not yet know, however, about the "gem" above.


Although there is no reference to actually CLIMBING the "worst rock on Earth" approach pitch to the base of the "gem," I am going to assume it was, indeed, climbed. (Rather than being approached by rappelling in from the top, then climbing back out).


I still want to climb the route, but instead of charging up to the top, and rappelling in, I wanted to further investigate. (Perhaps I totally missed the solution, but good God . . . I do not think so).


Do you happen to know anymore about it? If not, could you run it by Jeff Thomas? Or could you put me in touch with him?


Thanks, in advance, for any help you can offer.

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