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mountainmatt

Weight, height, and climbing levels

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Lets avoid the thread drift here and stay on topic (at least somewhat). What are peoples thoughts about the limitations of climbing levels in terms of weight? Any med people out there want to comment about the weakness of bone structure, tendons, etc?

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Sorry MtMatt, EvilTradClimbGuy took over today and I just couldnt help myself. Kinda got on a roll.

 

Here is an article I came across after really thinking about this topic. Its related to tendon/ligament strength for baseball pitching and how there may be a limiting factor, I bet it relates pretty close to climbing considering the high stress we place on our fingers and ligaments when climbing at ultra high levels.

 

It would be interesting to know what sort of force factors climbers put on their fingers and other major joints involved with climbing. It would obviously show then that if we found this "limit" the lighter the climber the more of that maximum force would be able to be applied to the rock and less on holding themselves off the ground.

 

http://www.slate.com/id/2116402/

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i'm 6'7", 230 lbs - i'm far from the best climber, but not the worst either

 

marcus d's bigger than me and a bunch better too i hear

 

so tall folks can climb just fine

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Wow, an on topic reply from eviltradclimbguy! Holy crap!

 

This is what I am talking about. Where will physiology start to limit our ability? Decades ago, no one thought we would ever get beyond 5.10, and here we are at 5.15. Is there a limit?

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The article basically poses the question "Why is baseball pitching been topped out for so many years when things like the high jump or sprinting continues to evolve, like climbing." It goes on to say a possible reason is that pitching puts a near breaking limit on ligaments whereas running hasn't evolved to the point that ligaments are the limiting factor. I'd guess that climbing will reach a stale mate like pitching eventually. Just too many other factors over the last 30yrs in climbing has been affecting the levels we climb. ie. Sticky rubby and training, better gear and more focus on sport climbing, etc.

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I think that it is more about strength to weight ratio. I know many people who are close to 200 pounds who are strong as hell and send some very hard stuff. Once again though, I strongly believe that technique is the ultimate factor in climbing. Obviously strength helps, but if you have great endurance and impeccable technique then you are gonna be an amazing climber no matter what your body type is. Strength and size may be a major factor on some routes but look at a place like smith, for example, you could easily climb 5.13 and be 5'6" 200lbs. Why? Because Smith is ALL about standing on your feet for a really long time. I have been climbing for a very long time and have been to many many different areas and I can honestly say that there are very few routes that are dependant on being extremely strong or a certain body type. Earlier you guys talked about Sharma and Lynne Hill. They are extremely different climbers but their technique is so well honed into their body type that it works for them. Lynne Hill climbs in a very static manner and Sharma climbs in an extremely controlled dynamic manner. Sharma is strong as hell but he would still suck if he didn't know how to use technique.

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Holy cow has this topic been talked into the dirt. We all know there are exceptions to all rules. I have seen short climbers hike 5.14 and tall climbers hike climbs and moves I cant do with a ladder. So where are we know? Still speculating about who or what makes the best climbers.

 

“The best climbers are the ones who have the most fun”

Alex Lowe

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kev...go back to the midget porn...

 

chase is spot on...this site is full o' idiots...god, who started this dumb thread anyway?

 

I mean if the point was, "do you have to be in shape to climb well or if you are a fat ass you're going nowhere"...that is a nobrainer...

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I strongly believe that technique is the ultimate factor in climbing. Obviously strength helps, but if you have great endurance and impeccable technique then you are gonna be an amazing climber no matter what your body type is. Sharma is strong as hell but he would still suck if he didn't know how to use technique.

 

Amen brother!! I was just about to write these sweet words. I'm old, fat, tall, fat. But my technique is so blown up! yoda.gif

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chase is spot on...

 

I agree with Chase as well. But the point is being missed a little here. What are the physical limitations? We can think of exceptions, but where does it end? Where will the tendons snap, finger no longer hold on?

 

 

this site is full o' idiots...

 

Quick, give this guy a PhD!

 

 

god, who started this dumb thread anyway?

 

If you don't like it, go to spray. Or maybe Cafe sensitivo is your cup of tea?

 

 

I mean if the point was, "do you have to be in shape to climb well or if you are a fat ass you're going nowhere"...that is a nobrainer...

 

Exactly, maybe that is where we started, but we have drifted to the physical limitations. Care to comment on that?

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my physical limitations involve a 40+ a week cube job, three kids, a wife that goes ballistic if i even say the word "climbing" and age...these all drastically reduce one's limitations...without these components, most normal healthy folks should be capable of onsighting 5.12 and climbing 5.13 with just the tiniest of efforts...

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my physical limitations involve a 40+ a week cube job, three kids, a wife that goes ballistic if i even say the word "climbing" and age...these all drastically reduce one's limitations...without these components, most normal healthy folks should be capable of onsighting 5.12 and climbing 5.13 with just the tiniest of efforts...

 

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

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my physical limitations involve a 40+ a week cube job, three kids, a wife that goes ballistic if i even say the word "climbing" and age...these all drastically reduce one's limitations...without these components, most normal healthy folks should be capable of onsighting 5.12 and climbing 5.13 with just the tiniest of efforts...

 

I want the kool-aid this guy is drinking. How the hell do you do it? Steriods? Midget porn?

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my physical limitations involve a 40+ a week cube job, three kids, a wife that goes ballistic if i even say the word "climbing" and age...these all drastically reduce one's limitations...without these components, most normal healthy folks should be capable of onsighting 5.12 and climbing 5.13 with just the tiniest of efforts...
Rudy those are not uncommon limitations. Everybody has some "imposed" limitations.

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whatever H2O...

 

You are the perfect example of what i'm talking about...hiking 5.12 and redpointing 5.13...

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Where can one find such porn? I've never seen any. yoda.gif

 

midget porn?

 

Taboo video, second ilse on left, down at the end, on the bottom.

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