Baltoro Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 How about the "access chimney" on the far right side of the Great Northern Slab. I have yet to see someone get up that for the first time in anything resembling good style. I don't care if you climb in the .12's. That thing may be the most humbling thing at Index and that's saying something. Moderate is relative! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Good call, Baltoro. Another candidate for this discussion is the bolt ladder start to City Park. There is a serious trick to it so that if you know the "beta," it is at least a letter grade easier and maybe two: from atop the block where it starts to get hard, step down and right about four or five feet, then proceed upward again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Or Ruttabaga, Squish Yeah, took a couple of nice sliders off this one until I figured out the 5.9 A1 sequence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Can't believe this didn't come to mind earlier: Alley-Oop Chimney at Peshastin. Go climb it, you'll see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Can't believe this didn't come to mind earlier: Alley-Oop Chimney at Peshastin. Go climb it, you'll see what I mean. Since we're on the subject of Peshastin, how about the first pitch of Lightning Crack? I got thrashed by the bulge move for over 20 minutes the first time I tried it. I skulked away humbly, losing the onsight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Can't believe this didn't come to mind earlier: Alley-Oop Chimney at Peshastin. Go climb it, you'll see what I mean. Since we're on the subject of Peshastin, how about the first pitch of Lightning Crack? I got thrashed by the bulge move for over 20 minutes the first time I tried it. I skulked away humbly, losing the onsight. naww, you just were not lucky... I have seen that onsighted more times... but it has definitely seen more than a few shutdowns. and injuries.... The overhang on orchard rock has (i am sure) stumped a few "à vue" leaders. I have also seen a few blown onsights on Fakin It (austrian slab)....and ankle breaks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 MF Overhang or MF Direct at Castle. Slippery sustained and steep enough. Though I don't know how much easier it gets after the first go 'round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 MF Overhang or MF Direct at Castle. Slippery sustained and steep enough. Though I don't know how much easier it gets after the first go 'round. I would give you thee beta but perhaps for you it is not so easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Thin Wall Special. Pulling the mantel first try seemed hard. I failed on this move and had onsighted harder rated cracks that trip. Fuck I need to climb more and get back in shape. I'd probably fail on most those routes today. It's never an onsight if your feet leave the ground and touch it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 It's never an onsight if your feet leave the ground and touch it again. So is it also not an onsight if you get to a crux section and downclimb to a stance a couple times before sending? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 No that counts. But I;ve seen it claimed even if they climb up to a crux and squirm about at the start. Then down climb and stand there, breath a bit, chalk and climb up and send. Total bullshit in my mind for Onsighting. That said I don't really care what you call it. As long as it's fun I'm happy. I do the stance thing all the time when I climb stuff that is harder for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 The ground is a stance too, no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Cause you know when Yuji Hirayama onsighted Sphinx Crack he climbed the 5.11 part for a warmup, downclimbed to the ground, then climbed back up and onsighted the 5.13 part... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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