powderhound Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 I think that the type of rock is a big determinent. If it is a crack you know hwat to do, however if it is the sporty climb on dolimite or limstone you can spend a lot of time searching for hold(barring no tick marks or tons of chalk). that has been my expirence in the rockies where you climb in areas with less traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Pope is right, the mono is the key! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Isn't the crux getting to the undercling on iron horse? Â I know a couple of folks who have onsighted new industry and model work so I would elimante those. At 10b I nominate klaus von bulgrow and the alogirthim of love, I would be very surpised shocked even if a 10b leader could onsight that opening sequence. Â At little si my friend who onsighted rainy day, didn't onsight aborigine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Thriller Pillar Direct, Royal Columns. Leaves you wondering for a long time at the exit move above the roof, until you finally flail or figure it out. To borrow pope's phrase, repeats are kinderspiel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 What about the first move on Zoom. How the hell do you mantel that blob?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 What about the first move on Zoom. How the hell do you mantel that blob?? No kidding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 mantel up, and go to the finger pocket with your right hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adventureboy Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Fourth pitch of Heavens Gate at UTW, Or Ruttabaga, Squish Saqqitarius Long certainly comes to mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SemoreJugs Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Shit, are .11a's considered moderates? Or is that just at Index? Â ... Knocked down yet another peg, not many left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Blood Clot in Lower Gorge feels a bit different than other 10b's around there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Remember we're not talking about routes that seem hard for the rating. We're talking about routes that are hard to onsight, routes that have tricky or quirky moves that, once figured out, make the route seem much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Where lizards dare at Red River Gorge. Great route, but good luck with the onsight unless you have beta... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Remember we're not talking about routes that seem hard for the rating. We're talking about routes that are hard to onsight, routes that have tricky or quirky moves that, once figured out, make the route seem much easier. Â That's damn near every route at the quarry in Tenino. Â "No, hook your thumb under that roof!" Â "Up and left, hidden hold, no, further!" Â "NO, don't touch THAT!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Remember we're not talking about routes that seem hard for the rating. We're talking about routes that are hard to onsight, routes that have tricky or quirky moves that, once figured out, make the route seem much easier. I know - that's how I meant it. For me it's "tricky or quirky moves" on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choss_crawler Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 (edited) Seriously though, when is the last time you saw someone try to legitimately onsight Iron horse placing gear. I think it would be a reasonable onsight for someone climbing that level. Â As for zoom, the hard move is right off the ground, so you can try the move, step off, and try again like most people do without weighting the rope, thus not blowing the onsight. Â I thought thin fingers was quite hard the first time I got on it. I'm talking about the moves right off the halfway ledge, none of this stepping right nonsense. Edited November 17, 2006 by choss_crawler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 i tried it jesse...flew right (errr, greased, slimed, whined) out of the vslot (still pissed about that, just messed up) and decided the second time to wander over to the ringing flake and on through sag...hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Man of Leisure at the upper right end of Shannon Falls is supposedly only 10a if you finger traverse the dyke, but if you do what seems obvious and foot traverse the dyke (and it's a dyke on a slab, who wouldn't) it's brick 'ard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 at the moment the hardest part of onsighting man of leisure might be locating the trail to it through the epic salal and windfall jungle. from anecdotes it seems like the lower .10a cruxy move on Rock On is frequently mis-read by first timers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Fern, are you talking about the start of the 5.10a pitch? This would be the thin corner crack? I'm surprised. I didn't lead this part, but it seemed straightforward to me, the key was being able to stem as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Terminal preppie is fun and well protected. Bring along a couple TCUs for the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 (edited) I know that i posted on this topic earlier, but now it just seems plain dumb to me. Call me a hypocrite and whatever else you like. Just think about the title "Hardest Moderate route to onsight" Seriously... Edited November 19, 2006 by powderhound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 most of us are moderate climbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 5.11 appears to be the new 5.9...? Â the first pitch of Hunters Moon at Gobsmacking wall is a hard, unlikely onsight, you might want to climb that crack at the crux....but guess again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I defintely misread some of the traversing moves on Neat and Cool in Squamish, but it seemed quite a bit easier than I first thought once I watched my friend follow and realized where everything was. Â I wouldn't call it a difficult onsight, but just not as straightforward as some of the other splitters in the area. Â Oh yeah, and Popeye and the Raven definitely had me stumped until I tried some acrobatic stemming off a crazy chickenhead feature. That bit could be a show-killer if you didn't get creative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 The nurses at the local hospital know Neat and Cool by name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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