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rngrchad

Baker Highway Climbing

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Mt Baker highway has some climbing at a place called "the baker crags" which is primarily single pitch routes hence being named a crag. I have found a very large piece of granite...which is located at the end of the Hannegan Pass Parking lot. This extremely large, mini-squamish like rock mountain must have a name. I have come to the conclusion it may be called Mamie peak? Anyhow, anyone who could clear this up for me, I say in advance thank you. Also if you know if anywhere to gather information on route beta etc etc that would be great too. Until then, I'm going to go check it out for myself on foot, and by my binoculars.

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Folks with more history around here than me claim that Mamie Peak and Granite Mtn have there names crossed on the USGS maps. So in fact what you are looking at should be called Granite mountain. It sorta makes sense don't you think?

 

I know a couple people who have gone up there over the years and put up a pitch or two. Neither of them seem to remember much or have any interest in going back.

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Hmmm...I find it so incredibly hard to believe that the huge chunk of granite doesn't hold some great multipitch routes!? I appreciate your reply, looks like I will have to go check it out for myself. Everything adds up that it would be good: tall granite; short approach; beautiful setting....

Dberdinka, good call on the topo maps having the names mixed up. I have tried to find a picture of granite mountain to verify what I am seeing but have yet to come up with it.

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Like Darin, I have heard of people that have climbed Granite Mtn and the rock quality is friable at best; lots of loose stuff. They also never went back for a second time.

 

I remember having the same question you had the first time I passed it on the pass trail.

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Darn, I'm kind of bumming. That rock, at least from a distance, looked incredible. Ah well. I guess there's a reason I couldn't find any information on it.

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Been there.

It's not great from what I've seen so far,

but I still think there may be potential.

 

Cheers

Jimbo

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some friends of mine climbed it in early spring mixed conditions and had a great time. proabaly best to approach it when there is still snow on the ground so you won't have to schwack like Jimbo did.

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From page 57, Cascade Alpine Guide, V. 3 Rainy Pass to Fraser River, 2nd ed., by Fred Becky.

 

"MAMIE PEAK"

(GRANITE MOUNTAIN) 6,108 ft/1,862m

Current topographic maps have moved the traditional name-placement from 0.4 mi E of Mame Pass to midway between Mamie and Hannegan Pass. The copy below applies to the traditional peak location - a summit composed of Chilliwack Batholith, with a long western and a southern rock face. Map: USGS, Mt. Sefrit.

 

ROUTES: The W slope is a simple hike from 5,241-ft Mamie Pass (see Hannegan Pass Trail*). A higher peak (7,020 ft/2,141) on a spur between the forks of Silesia Creek is located c. 1.2 mi NE of Mamie Pass; one can probably reach this summit from the connecting ridge.

 

SOUTH BUTTRESS ("Mamie Peak"): First ascent by Dallas Kloke and Reed Tindal on July 18, 1972. From the trail at 3,100 ft, ascend vegetation, a stream course, and nearby slabby rock for 1,500 ft to the objective. Climb the left-hand side of the rock buttress for five leads (class 3-5). Continue left of a V-shaped gully on heather to hte base of a final rock face; ascend the right side to the ridge crest. Grade I, class 5.5; rock is somewhat friable granite. Time: 7 hours from the road.

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I went up there with binoculars once to scout along that value. From what I could tell, the granite appeared to be fairly featureless (read: crackless). Looked like to make the most of it you would want some bolts. But I've never actually hiked my way up to it. Do some exploration, never know, there might be a quality multi-pitch hidden in there.

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Just to set the record straight, I didn't have to schwack.

It was the black flies of August that almost killed me. I swear there were hundreds on me at any one time.

Each swat killed 10 or more.

 

As Frosty states, spring would be better.

 

bigdrink.gif

Jimbo

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