MCash Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 WA Crack - Breakfast of Champions WA Sport - the 10C pitch on Dark Rhythm OR Crack - Karate Crack OR Face - Wedding Day ID Crack - Bloody Fingers ID Face - None Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomagik Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Yes, I meant West face NEWS, that last pitch is the best crack pitch I have ever climbed, loved it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 ID Face - None Come on now, Tribal Boundaries, Cairo, Redtail, etc, etc, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian_Knight Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Mixed: Fifth Force (Index lower town wall) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth WA sport- Technorigine or something at the drip wall or rattlesnake rock @leavenworth OR sport- Vomit launch or Monkey space OR trad- Karate crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 Man, after reading what others thought. I have forgoten a lot of great climbs I have done. Breakfast of champions - Index. Great climb. How about the best 10- in WA: Blownout - Beacon Rock! Anyone done this climb? 105 feet of beautiful climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Ya blownout is incredible, sustained great climbing. If you kick it up solid 10, I think blood, sweat, and smears is incredible. Long and techy, especially the pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Crack climbs: Al Givler's Crack, Damnation, ROTC, Caboose, Easter Overhang, Yorkshire Gripper, Brass Balls Bolt-protected climbs: Timson's Face, White Lightning, Bomb Shelter Sport "climbing": Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Crack: ROTC Sport: Heavens Gate Crack: ROTC Trad but not quite a crack: Committed Sport: Model Worker What is it about 5.11c? You'd think I would pick something more about the fun factor and less about the grade. The truth is, 5.11c is the most fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 My favorite rock climb would have to be Dreamer. Very very fun day! Should we include Canada? I remember the first time I lead Merci me or Diedre. Those were thrilling time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 OR Trad: Zebra Zion (Smith) OR Sport: Magic light (short) (Smith) WA Trad: Thin Fingers (Index) WA Sport: The Overture (Deception) or Gorrilla my dreams (Index) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 WHich one is the overture? Is that the one with the long hanging chain at the roof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Yea, Overture has that long chain. Has a nice crux low, and then the excellent pull over the roof. Still need to get it clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 AZ: Paridise Forks, many great crack climbs. The Prow! one of the best cracks anywhere. 11.a. Anyone done it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mateo Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 or trad= goldrush or sport= headless horseman(smith) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower. Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!) My picks: trad-the dihedral pitch on Colchuck Balanced Rock W Face sport-Rainy Day Woman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower. Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!) There's no move harder than 10+ and if you take a rest in the middle of the pitch then that is what you climbed, a 10+. Most of the folks I've heard poo poo ROTC revealed that they did it with one hang. Many experienced crack climbers I've talked to call it 5.11c (like I remember Wallstein writing as much). I thought it was more difficult than Japanese Gardens. The year I first tried it I had flashed every 5.11 I attempted but on ROTC I couldn't squirm up the final squeez bulge (until I dispensed with a slippery wind breaker). Two years later I nailed it first try but it felt even harder. Think of any number of local popular 5.11- pitches such as Thin Fingers, Clean Crack, 1st pitch of Liberty Crack, Hot Cherry Bendover. ROTC is harder than any of these. In fact, ROTC is like having several Hot Cherry Bendover pitches stacked consecutively and tilted steeper. Hot Cherry has a reputation for spitting off "5.11 climbers". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Wa crack P1 of Lovin Arms or Orange Sunshine Wa face Manly Wham (Tenino) or Aboriginal Design (Tieton) Or crack Last pitch Zebra-Zion Or face Hemp Liberation or oot and aboot (Spring mtn) But I have to add that the Split Pillar is number one by far IMAO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 For a single pitch trad climb, I have always liked Godzilla. Maybe "real climbers" don't sully theirselves with it except as an afterthought, in the dark, with sandals on, but there is a reason it is so popular. For a longer trad climb, I think Davis Holland to Lovin' Arms is the best 5.10 in WA. For something a little easier, I think Midway with the original traverse 35 feet above the step-over from Jello Tower is as cool as it gets for truly moderate trad climbing. For a single pitch of sport climbing, I used to really like Narlux at Vantage. It is (or was) bolted funny, with substantial runout at key points even though it has plenty of bolts, but it involved heel hooking and side pulls and things slightly out of the ordinary for 5.10 at Vantage. I haven't been on it for a few years, though. For multipitch sport? Condomorphine. I know it rubs some people the wrong way, but it is a fun climb in a great setting. Of course I heartily enjoy the climbing in Darrington, and I'd say Dreamer, Total Soul, Dark Rhythm, Rainman, and Jacob's Ladder are in a category all their own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.rose Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 For easily accessable single pitch stuff I sure like this one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still_climbin Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 For WA cracks: The top 2 pitches of Outer Space are bliss. Givler's Crack is classic and always makes me remember the good times with Al. Face climbs: Nothing like Midway Direct to shake the cobwebs loose in the spring. Easy, but exhilerating. Also liked the "Traverse" picth on Improbable Traverse...I never found the 5.8 move but loved the feel of the whole pitch. Friction: WF of Grand Central Tower. The "Nervous 5.6" pitch of SEWS SW Buttress blew out some synapses when I did it on wet lichen several weeks ago. Extinct Climbs: Skin Graft Crack, Granite Point (now about 50' under water) First Column Direct in the old WSU Field House. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower. Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!) There's no move harder than 10+ and if you take a rest in the middle of the pitch then that is what you climbed, a 10+. Most of the folks I've heard poo poo ROTC revealed that they did it with one hang. Many experienced crack climbers I've talked to call it 5.11c (like I remember Wallstein writing as much). I thought it was more difficult than Japanese Gardens. The year I first tried it I had flashed every 5.11 I attempted but on ROTC I couldn't squirm up the final squeez bulge (until I dispensed with a slippery wind breaker). Two years later I nailed it first try but it felt even harder. Think of any number of local popular 5.11- pitches such as Thin Fingers, Clean Crack, 1st pitch of Liberty Crack, Hot Cherry Bendover. ROTC is harder than any of these. In fact, ROTC is like having several Hot Cherry Bendover pitches stacked consecutively and tilted steeper. Hot Cherry has a reputation for spitting off "5.11 climbers". I think ROTC is 11-. I felt ROTC had no hard move anywhere. Maybe one in the middle, but for me it was more the sequence of the jams. I put it down on my second go, no hangs. ROTC is pumpy and actually the business is short lived, but technical it is not. Jap Gardens and Clay are all technical with definite hard moves and cruxes. Now Clean Crack, I jumped on that again this past summer and it felt really, really hard for the grade. Anyways, no matter whaqt the grade, ROTC is one of the best single pitches in WA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 A gym climbing friend of mine onsighted Hot Cherry - back when you could climb it. She didn't hand or finger jam once, she pinched the right edge of the like it was an arete, the whole way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 A gym climbing friend of mine onsighted Hot Cherry - back when you could climb it. She didn't hand or finger jam once, she pinched the right edge of the like it was an arete, the whole way up. Now you've got a woman as your role model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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