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Of course. New Zealand and the PNW are not totally analogous areas. I posted the link not because I assumed it to be the be all and end all. Instead I think it interesting that despite the attempts to academically quanitify the relative strength of snow anchors it still illustrates how important PERSONAL JUDGEMENT is when it comes to assessing the appropriate means of protecting snow routes. I think that is clear when you look at the conclusions which assert, among other things, the importance of assessing likely loads and snow strength which are skills acquired through experience. I would be interested to read any such analysis that someone could find for the PNW.

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Pins hold an important place in an alpine rack. I like to keep it simple and carry 3 or 4 blades/lost arrow style/small angles. This is in addition to full ice rack of Black Diamond 22cm & 17cm screws, a couple of russian titanium screws for rapping, and pickets or snow flukes, depending on route of course.

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I've already read some of Al Fortini's reports. This is what led me to rig my Coyote pickets with cable to the mid point, for use in the "vertical deadman" configuration.


If the snow is soft enough to require a center attachment, the cable will cut itself through the snow. If the snow is too hard for the cable to cut, it's not needed, and the picket is used in the traditional fashion with a surface clip.




I'm interested in the cable rig.

Do you think it would work well in a horizontally placed picket as well?


How did you secure the cable to the picket?



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