Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
letsroll

Pitons

Recommended Posts

Of course. New Zealand and the PNW are not totally analogous areas. I posted the link not because I assumed it to be the be all and end all. Instead I think it interesting that despite the attempts to academically quanitify the relative strength of snow anchors it still illustrates how important PERSONAL JUDGEMENT is when it comes to assessing the appropriate means of protecting snow routes. I think that is clear when you look at the conclusions which assert, among other things, the importance of assessing likely loads and snow strength which are skills acquired through experience. I would be interested to read any such analysis that someone could find for the PNW.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pins hold an important place in an alpine rack. I like to keep it simple and carry 3 or 4 blades/lost arrow style/small angles. This is in addition to full ice rack of Black Diamond 22cm & 17cm screws, a couple of russian titanium screws for rapping, and pickets or snow flukes, depending on route of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've already read some of Al Fortini's reports. This is what led me to rig my Coyote pickets with cable to the mid point, for use in the "vertical deadman" configuration.

 

If the snow is soft enough to require a center attachment, the cable will cut itself through the snow. If the snow is too hard for the cable to cut, it's not needed, and the picket is used in the traditional fashion with a surface clip.

 

Catbirdseat,

 

I'm interested in the cable rig.

Do you think it would work well in a horizontally placed picket as well?

 

How did you secure the cable to the picket?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×