Early December conditions on the Leuthold Coulior?

[jackstraw0083]

I'm planning on climbing Mt. Hood for the first time, via the Leuthold Coulior, in early December. Can anyone give me the general conditions of the route, and/or the typical mountain temperatures and wind speeds for Hood this time of year? Thanks, much appreciated!!!

[iain]

Hood can produce outstanding alpine ice conditions in late fall/early winter. Unfortunately it is also fairly unpredictable when this window shows up, if at all.

 

Frequently by December the mountain is getting buried in snowfall, though there have been years when we've waited until January to really start skiing, and the couloirs have been bombarded by rock all season. The days are very short, so it is easy to be finishing in the dark, and it can be very cold.

 

This is not a time for beginning climbers to be on the mountain, but if conditions are right and you have the skills, confidence, and speed, it can be a blast! Protection can be limited, to the point that a roped team would be dangerous on Leutholds, but there can be good sticks in ice and frozen dirt in there and it's not too steep. You can expect some rockfall, and if it's been snowing, some _serious_ spindrift.

 

If this is one of your first alpine climbs I would not recommend it, but if you are comfortable on stuff like canadian wi3 climbs or so it should not feel too out there.

 

It's the only time I've placed a screw downclimbing the south side, if that's any indication on how bulletproof it can be.

 

Or, you could be wallowing in powder for hours, you never know.

[jackstraw0083]

Thanks for the advice!