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Pitch lengths on Green Drag-On


Baltoro

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I'm curious as to the pitch lengths, specifically the first two, on Green Drag-On. I mostly solo and as such am slow so this climb is a two day affair for me right now. I'd love to get the first two pitches fixed and ideally only subject one rope to inevitable drenching. So, does anyone know if one single strand 60m rope will reach the ground from the second belay station? I've been there before but we left gear on the ledge below and as such had to stop anyway. Any other helpful beta people want to throw out would be useful: linking pitches (soloing so no rope drag),critical gear, etc. , as I've only been up to the second pitch anchors. Thanks for any info that you can pass along.

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My partner and I climbed Town Crier while two of our buddies did Green Drag-On. We also did it in a two-day format and to the best of my recollection the answer is no. We fixed three pitches on TC (which is even with the first 2 pitches of GD) and to get down/up we had to do two rappels. The first full-length to the big ledge, then a short one to the ground. I recall that one rope would get you pretty close to the ground, but close doesn't really cut it.

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60m rope will get you 7-10 feet off the ground, 70m will work. also, with a 70 m rope you can link the first pitch of davis holland/town crier with the second pitch of green dragon. then link 3 and 4 with a 60m. then climb pitch 5, turning the route into 3 pitches. link up of the first two works for the soloist only due to rope drag, make your belay at the base of the clean part of the corner.

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Or

 

p1 (aid start, not D-H)

p2&3

p4&5

p6

 

Compared to p2, p3 goes pretty quickly. If you fix p3, however, think about protecting your rope where it crosses the edge of the roof on the way down.

 

Another option is to haul the ledge and sleep under the roof at the top of p3. Stays dry in the rain.

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A 60m line will connect to the ground from the top of pitch two if you count rope stretch. Another way to do it might be to redirect the rope on the way down (by placing a peice at the top of pitch one before the route traverses to the anchors). This would allow the rope to end at the top of the little 5.0 free section that starts the C2 on pitch one. This way you don't have to rely on rope stretch.

 

For other info, check the TRs, OlyMtnBoy and I were just up there a few weeks ago. PM with any other questions.

 

Have fun up there!

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I have rapped from the top of P2 to the ground with a 60m cord (streched). You have to rap to the base of P1 of D-H and Town Winer though which results in just a touch off of the pumb line (to climbers left). Have fun, I have wanted to solo it for awhile but have ended up climbing it with a partner three times... fun climb.

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