Billy Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 If I were to climb Devil's Kitchen Headwall, how many pickets should I bring for the required rappells? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowleopard_x Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Billy - I wouldn't rappell. I would continue up on the Steel Cliffs, finishing off the Wy East route. This all depends though on where you hit the headwall (or East Crater Rim, proper). Go far enough to the left, and you'll miss the Wy East and end up about 50' SE of the summit. Take anything from the DKH right variation through the Flying Buttress, to the final chute on the East Rim and you'll crest the East Crater Rim at the end of the Steel Cliffs. From there, follow the Wy East. This really is the best way to go, and the best part of the Wy East (a very underrated route if you ask me). You get some fun route finding along the top, with great views, and a final steep little chute (that falls off below over the Black Spider!) to keep your adreneline up. From there, you're near the summit and can safely descend the Hogsback. The hardest part of any of these routes though would be the top pitch cresting the East Crater Rim, it's usually near vertical at the top, and if the ice is chunky and rime, like it usually is, the leader must not fall. Go early in the day, and early in the season. After about April debris starts coming down, and a nasty moat opens up just below all the routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted March 24, 2002 Author Share Posted March 24, 2002 Thanks snow leopard. I'm just wondering, if I do end up rappelling DKH, should I t-slot the pickets or just pound them in stake style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 We did it in January and left one at the top, backing up a bollard. The second rappel was off of a better bollard. We backed that up for the first guy, then I pulled the screw and rapped off of just the bollard. As for whether as a stake or deadman, it depends on the conditions. If it takes some effort to drive, you're done. If you can plonk it in by hand, start digging a slot for the deadman, preferably after work hardening a couple of feet around the area. We chose to rap due to incoming weather and a 50+ breeze blowing up our skirts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: imorris ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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