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Experience w/ Metolius Offset Ultralights?


TheOtter

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They're great!

 

We are really getting somewhere here.

 

I think I otter go spit into the wind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To elevate the conversation, here are a few questions:

 

1) Does the lack of vertical-placement-floppiness of the stem make these offsets less useful than aliens?

 

2) I would guess the new, smaller brazing connection between the cable+axle makes the cam fit better into smaller pod cracks. Especially in the small cam sizes. True?

 

3) The regular (non-offset) ultralights that I have used have a stiffer trigger pull than the older Metolius cams. Is that the case with these?

 

4) Is the middle lobe the same size as the outer or inner lobe?

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Hybrids are the only Aliens I own, and have had two sets of them for years. I like them for the unique qualities they offer, but Metolius are my main cams and have been since my original Friends were stolen in the early 90's. It has always bugged me that I've had to buy brands other than Metolius for things like Alien Hybrids, Wild Country Offsets, and big BD Cams (and I've always hated BD cams).

 

Because of that and my involvement in the whole Aliens fiasco, I knew Ivo had been bugging Metolius to market offsets. I jumped in seconding that and in strongly urging them to add offsets to their product line. Part of that effort resulted in some early prototypes and so I've been using mine for several years (they aren't Ultralights, though). Bill Coe has also had a set and he can speak for himself as to how he likes them.

 

My take on them is that if you are at all technically inclined relative to placements, or do any aid climbing, then you should definitely pop for a set of these. Mine are permanently on my rack and while I still use the Alien Hybrids on occasion, I only rack one of them when I have a specific need it. The Aliens still have their place for when I need to hang only one side the cam in a surface notch or pin scar or when I want a very flexible stem. But in an either or situation it's the Metolius every time. They are just made so much better than the Aliens it isn't even funny.

 

Mine have now been integrated into my rack and thinking for so long at this point I can't imagine not having them while I'm climbing. Also, my prototypes just have regular old solid colored tubing and slings and I rack them alongside the regular cam of the same size but on a gold gate Petzl Spirits as opposed to the purple gated Spirits all my other cams are on.

 

I highly recommend these, but then I'm completely pregidous. Now, if we could only get Metolius to get on with the big Super Cams so I can ditch the trash BD's.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah, I'm with Lambone. I don't quite understand the webbing colors.

I was recently eyeballing these in MG. I do love the Alien Hybrids for aid but prefer my Metolius (I have the old ones) for free climbing. These would be nice but so would a new set of the Ultralights!

Alas.....my debit load says no.

Jedi

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It must be christmas, because I've had mine for a week now.

 

The coloring is pretty easy to understand. If you have a set of regular TCU's, each offset covers a range from the two similiar regular TCU colors on the U-stem. The side smaller piece of colored plastic is on, is also the side with the smaller cams. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

edited: got the cam size backwards

Edited by Weekend_Climberz
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  • 3 months later...

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