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[TR] Lovers Leap - Hardly Strictly Bluegrass- 10/6/2006


Winter

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Climb: Lovers Leap - Hardly Strictly Bluegrass-

 

Date of Climb: 10/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

Back at the desk after another excellent trip that once again call into question the sanity of holding down a regular job. Why?

 

K and I started out at Lovers Leap. First time we've been there, and we loved it. Free camping. Beautiful rock. No mid-week crowds. Cool locals.

 

We pulled into the parking lot and the first guy we see says "My japanese friend here is looking for a rid to Yos. You going that way?" We knew right away he was talking about Tacos, who we met at Red Rocks in the spring of '05. She got dropped off by some strangers on a cold windy night when the campground was full. I asked her if she was ok and she asked if she could crash in our site. We've been there before and obliged. Haven't seen her since, but there she was at the Leap 18+ months later. Ended up climbing with her a bit and hanging in Camp 4 through a rainstorm later in the week. Fess up - who knows Tacos? Someone out there must have met her before, because apparently all she does is travel around North America bumming rides and looking for climbing partners.

 

119C_and_K_and_Tacos_small_-med.jpgp><p> Bear

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/119Haystack_2_small_-med.jpg' alt='119Haystack_2_small_-med.jpg'>

 

Bear's Reach is a good warm up to the area. Haystack was a walk with one semi-hard move at the fun roof. Look for the jug.

 

Surrealistic Pillar to the Line

 

119The_Line_small_-med.jpg

 

119Kristin_and_the_Line_6_small_-med.jpg

 

Yeah the line kicks ass. I thought it was sustained but pretty easy for 5.9. Incredible rock and a great position. Watch out for the blind reach to the loose flake on pitch 2. Someone needs to trundle that shit before it takes out a belayer.

 

The Groove to Hospital Corner

 

119Hospital_Corner_small_-med.jpg

 

119Tacos_on_Hospital_Corner_small_-med.jpg

 

119K_in_Hospital_Corner2_small_-med.jpg

 

119Tacos_on_Hospital_Corner_2_small_-med.jpg

 

Hospital Corner was definitely the highlight. HIGHLY recommended for anyone within spitting distance of being a solid .10a trad leader. A steep corner, tons of pro, incredible rock and an awesome position.

 

Also got some time in at Phantom Spires.

 

119Phantom_Spire_-_Middle_Spire_small_-med.jpg

 

Cool place. BIG knobs.

 

From there we drove over Tioga Pass, through the Meadows and Camp 4 to San Francisco for Hardly Strictly Bluegrass.

 

Del and the Boys

 

119Del_and_the_Boys_3-med.jpg

 

Del kicks ass.

 

The Ladies

 

119The_Ladies_small_-med.jpg

 

The Bums

 

119Prince_and_Zzzz_small_-med.jpg

 

Bonerama at the Boom Boom Room on Staurday Night. Oh yeah ... a little piece of Nawlins in SF for the weekend. 4 trombones, a souzaphone, a drummer and guitarist blaring Crosstown Traffic at you from 5 feet away at 3 am.

 

119Bonerama_small_-med.jpg

 

How much do we need to retire?

 

119Chris_and_Kristin_on_top_of_the_Line_small_-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

no computer, no cell phone and no worries

 

Approach Notes:

PDX-Lovers Leap-Tioga Pass-Camp 4-SF-PDX

Edited by Winter
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Great photos! And good choice on hitting Hospital Corner, it's probably the best 5.10a pitch I have ever climbed.

 

Fess up - who knows Tacos? Someone out there must have met her before, because apparently all she does is travel around North America bumming rides and looking for climbing partners.

I met her at the Bugaboos (pretty sure it's the same person). While she was climbing the Kain Route on Bugaboo spire, she left her boots at the base and they disappeared--probably stolen by an animal pitty.gif so she had to hike back to the hut in her rock shoes, borrow a pair of "real" shoes from someone in the hut, hike to the car, drive to Canmore, buy a new pair of boots, drive back, and hike up again!

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Great TR, that place rocks and you did some real classics!

 

God they have some stuff down there you can dream about as you drift off to sleep. Ujahn bought me the Lovers Leap guidebook for my last birthday present and is panting like a dog on a leash to head down there. (I printed his name on the cover and will re-gift it to him for his birthday)

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