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korrigan

Bolt Nazis

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part of the argument comes down to this: for bolted or partly-bolted pitches, does the first ascensionist have any kinda moral/social/nice-guy responsibility to bolt it safely and at good stances? Or, because they probably eyed/cleaned/equipped the route themself, should they just put in bolts exactly where (and not where) they want to, with thought only given to enabling their FA of the climb.

 

I believe the FA has to right to do it how ever they please. Morals? Not sure! How many climbs have you ever come across ( all over the west coast ) that you wont climb because its scary and runout and is rates PG13 or R? I know I have run across theses routes. Well I don’t climb them, the same can be said for a well bolted routes. If you don’t like it, go climb something else. I respect the FA above all else!

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kevin's point is on the top of his head...

 

So good of you to drop in! My points are already explained. rockband.gif

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You're right, you did already explain your points. Sorry for asking.

 

selkirk, why didn't you just come out and say you were trying to uncover peoples thoughts on bolting?

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It was done with the second pitch of RPM and on Mary Jane Dihedral.

 

2nd pitch of RPM??? There are no bolts on p.2 of RPM, as it's all perfect cracks to a cool little roof with more fun crack climbing...

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I think 2nd pitch of RPM was rejuvenated from the dead by some serious scrubbing though. Apparently the guy thought he had a cool FA until he did some more research.

 

Yes p2 RPM is cool. You can also avoid the crux roof and face by heading left and joining up with Remorse to keep it at 5.9.

 

Also, there is a bolt anchor at the start, don't know when they appeared though.

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I think 2nd pitch of RPM was rejuvenated from the dead by some serious scrubbing though. Apparently the guy thought he had a cool FA until he did some more research.

 

Yes p2 RPM is cool. You can also avoid the crux roof and face by heading left and joining up with Remorse to keep it at 5.9.

 

Also, there is a bolt anchor at the start, don't know when they appeared though.

 

They've been for two years I think. The first time I led it three years ago, there was one 3/8" and a 1/4"-er.

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What is the idea that if you could possibly take a 30 foot whipper than it is for hardmen only? Or that if there is one mangy bolt on a climb again for hardmen only? Ever climbed above marginal pro? Have you ever climbed above anything at all! Falling is part of climbing. Some routes are light on the bolts and that means climbers aspiring to that grade should work on other routes until there skilled enough to send without falling on manky bolts or in the runout sections.

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What is the idea that if you could possibly take a 30 foot whipper than it is for hardmen only?

 

I would say if a route has a known runout with 30 foot whip (if you fall) and it is a hard route. Meaning climbers do fall. The route would probably see only a few accents: AKA hardman route! smile.gif

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30 footer is merely average. 30 meters is getting bold.

 

So often do you take 30 footers Dru.....once a week? once a month? once a year?

 

Thats' kind of what I thought.

Does anyone here take 30 footers on a regular basis(on something that isn't completely overhanging)? How about 15 footers on a regular basis?

 

Yes I climb above gear. Yes I've run it out a bit on occasion. Yes I've climbed above marginal gear. I'm n hardman, but I don't think I suck either. However I won't run it out above marginal gear on hard terrain. No route is worth the risk at that point, and if some act of god causes me to pitch then I better hope all I get is broken ankles. I've never taken a 30 footer (a couple of 12-15 footers and few shorter ones) and aspire never to have to. My dad broke his neck on 10ft fall Prusik years ago. 30 ft is dangerous. 90 ft is just stupid, and if your doing that on a regular basis I hope you don't have a family to mourn you.

 

15 ft between gear on a moderate alpine climb (5.4 to 5.8) is probably reasonable. 15+ ft between gear on something relatively hard (sustained 5.9 or harder) is getting into an area no one I know is willing to risk. Just keep praying the hold doensn't break, or goat doesn't kick a rock down.

 

I think a potential for a 30ft fall on relatively hard climbing qualifies as a "hardman" route.

 

Ok, back to usual entertainment of everyone stroking there

 

 

 

 

 

 

egos.

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15 feet between gear is potential >30 foot fall with rope stretch.

 

I don't fall often but I do run it out a lot. I've taken some big flights (like 50, 60 feet), but even on a steep sport route, a soft catch can see you fly for near 30 feet. 30 feet is 10 meters. 10 meters is NBD. The length of the fall is kind of a worthless referent anyways. the potential for hitting stuff is way more important.

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I don't fall often but I do run it out a lot. I've taken some big flights (like 50, 60 feet),

 

Stroke Stroke Stroke Stroke wave.gif

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Me I'm gettin my Bosch out and headin for SCW now. Too bad ya'll are workin or you could stop me.

 

Bosch??? Get a Hilti, it will work even faster!

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78555584_fd114854af_o.jpg

 

Next bolts are the anchor (40m away). would it be better with a bolt every 10 feet. No, it would lose something.

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30 footer is merely average. 30 meters is getting bold.

 

So often do you take 30 footers Dru.....once a week? once a month? once a year?

 

Thats' kind of what I thought.

Does anyone here take 30 footers on a regular basis(on something that isn't completely overhanging)? How about 15 footers on a regular basis?

 

Yes I climb above gear. Yes I've run it out a bit on occasion. Yes I've climbed above marginal gear. I'm n hardman, but I don't think I suck either. However I won't run it out above marginal gear on hard terrain. No route is worth the risk at that point, and if some act of god causes me to pitch then I better hope all I get is broken ankles. I've never taken a 30 footer (a couple of 12-15 footers and few shorter ones) and aspire never to have to. My dad broke his neck on 10ft fall Prusik years ago. 30 ft is dangerous. 90 ft is just stupid, and if your doing that on a regular basis I hope you don't have a family to mourn you.

 

15 ft between gear on a moderate alpine climb (5.4 to 5.8) is probably reasonable. 15+ ft between gear on something relatively hard (sustained 5.9 or harder) is getting into an area no one I know is willing to risk. Just keep praying the hold doensn't break, or goat doesn't kick a rock down.

 

I think a potential for a 30ft fall on relatively hard climbing qualifies as a "hardman" route.

 

Ok, back to usual entertainment of everyone stroking there

 

 

 

 

 

 

egos.

 

edited cuz i don't get out very much anymore

 

you'd better stay away from ceuse, verdon, buoux, etc if those numbers scare you...

Edited by RuMR

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