Dechristo Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 It's an invitation to tragedy. You're thinking of another route: Romeo and Juliet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 If you don't like crowds and bottlenecks on climbs...climb something else. I climbed that route last year, and I think I anchored to a couple of nuts and maybe a small cam up and left of the bolts( I think) mostly cuz I didn't know where the fuck I was going and thought the route went up and left from there instead of over to the right. And it worked out just fine. Those bolts are unnecessary...if they are the ones I'm thinking of and we're talking about here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 If you don't like crowds and bottlenecks on climbs...climb something else. I climbed that route last year, and I think I anchored to a couple of nuts and maybe a small cam up and left of the bolts( I think) mostly cuz I didn't know where the fuck I was going and thought the route went up and left from there instead of over to the right. And it worked out just fine. Those bolts are unnecessary...if they are the ones I'm thinking of and we're talking about here. Well said Ross. Hey, whomever said it about questioning Fred's bolt location. What makes you think it was FB's lead and is the culprit who drilled the "sh!tty" bolts in the firstplace??? GRID BOLT THE WORLD! ooops, my outside typing voice got the better of me again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 GRID BOLT THE WORLD! a paraphrase of Donald Sutherland's psycho character in Backdraft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 If you don't like crowds and bottlenecks on climbs...climb something else. I climbed that route last year, and I think I anchored to a couple of nuts and maybe a small cam up and left of the bolts( I think) mostly cuz I didn't know where the fuck I was going and thought the route went up and left from there instead of over to the right. And it worked out just fine. Those bolts are unnecessary...if they are the ones I'm thinking of and we're talking about here. Well said Ross. Hey, whomever said it about questioning Fred's bolt location. What makes you think it was FB's lead and is the culprit who drilled the "sh!tty" bolts in the firstplace??? GRID BOLT THE WORLD! ooops, my outside typing voice got the better of me again. have you checked ebay for some goldline and hobnailed boots lately, bitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Some genius asked What makes you think it was FB's lead and is the culprit who drilled the "sh!tty" bolts in the firstplace??? Yet the very same genius said The bolts are there cuz the short rope beckey was aiding on stopped there. and then he re-iterates this fact I think FB should way in on this argument.... considering he put the damn bolts in and last time I checked still running around this globe we call home (@84). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Some genius asked What makes you think it was FB's lead and is the culprit who drilled the "sh!tty" bolts in the firstplace??? Yet the very same genius said The bolts are there cuz the short rope beckey was aiding on stopped there. and then he re-iterates this fact I think FB should way in on this argument.... considering he put the damn bolts in and last time I checked still running around this globe we call home (@84). huh, so are all the posts during normal business hours? and why are you so fN critical of everything I say mark? Diggin kinda deep, yup. Maybe I actually rethought the fact that we assume it was fred and also we have no proof, unless he remembers or we ask his partner.... so I threw out the what makes you think qoute? and no rudy, hobnailed bolts and goldlines or hemp, I have not seen on ebay...if YOU see some buy some for me...and I ain't gonna pay you back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 whatsamatter, benny??? Did you bang your knobby toe in your hobnailed shoe??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Whhhaaa... moooom, rudy is a meanie.....!!! He is teasing me about hobs and nails and whaaaaaaaaaaa! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 In response to my points, Ben crawled out of his crib and said: Whhhaaa... moooom, whaaaaaaaaaaa! Jeez Louise Ben, do you have thin skin or what? You’re sitting here on this thread, being a loud mouth, and using poor debate skills. Of coarse people are going to point out mistakes in your logic, or weaknesses in your points. Like I really had to dig deep to find your quote about Fred and the original bolts. Your whole argument is “Fred Beckey put them in! I’ll ask him! I climbed this route 15 years ago! I’m from Leavenworth! You’re all cidiots!” No offense to AlpineK, but it doesn’t take a brain surgeon to dismantle that argument. The inter-net, and these forums are merely a place to argue and debate. A fine and reasonable debate tactic is pointing out inconsistencies in the logic of your opponent. Your were inconsistent, and I brought that to your attention. Pull up your britches, and be the tough guy you all want us to think you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korrigan Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 And so another fairly interesting thread comes to an ignoble end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 (edited) Actually, I will interject one more response 'cuz its america, land of free speech and um yeah. Mark, why do you care so much? Yes I am from Leavenworth and yes I will be outspoken about bolting in a once very traditional area that has become sucked into the McDonaldizing BS that has embrassed rock climbing community of america and abroad. So, Foff mr Crazy JZ. PS. this is not a debate so do not tell me I have poor skills. this is a web forum where people type responses to threads as well as start there own AT all hours of the day so being a nit picky digger is IMHO futile. EditPSS: the Whaaa response was not directed to you unless your name is rudy or ruMr... Hmmmm. Edited October 27, 2006 by bwrts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 If I remember correctly, the only protection at the tree behind the block belay is slinging those trees. I think that if you're up there with the bolt-sinking hardware, you oughta sink a station in by those trees, cause what would happen if some guy was up there with just dogbone draws. No slings, no anchor. It's an invitation to tragedy. Do you really want to get into the the "Is it better to sling and damage a tree, than throw in 2 bolts for an anchor discussion?" I can go there if you'd really like to I'd like to hear the argument. Being from the Gunks where bolts are verboten at the highest order... and yet many anchors and rap stations were installed for the specific reason of PROTECTING the trees. Two small, well camouflaged bolts or a tree with worn-smooth bark and/or grooves/tat? Leme think.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 I'd like to hear the argument. Being from the Gunks where bolts are verboten at the highest order... and yet many anchors and rap stations were installed for the specific reason of PROTECTING the trees. Two small, well camouflaged bolts or a tree with worn-smooth bark and/or grooves/tat? Leme think.... My thoughts exactly..... Anybody wanna argue about the merits replacing putting in two 1/2" bolts, to replace the need to sling trees for belay/rap stations on local trade routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Wads of slings are just as ugly or uglier as a bolted piece of rock. However, my feeling is that it should only be done if the rap is necessary, or done by like 80% or more of the people that attempt the route. For example, if there's 5 pitch route with a fairly easy walkdown from the top. Say there's a stout tree at the ledge atop the second pitch. Once in a while people may get bouted, injured or rained off, and in those cases retreat using the tree. I would hesitate to install bolts near the tree in that location. Slings are much easier to clean up than bolts. If it's a place where there's an easy walkdown, but for the sake of convenience people just keep girdling a tree, no matter how many times the slings are removed, then it's time to be pragmatic, give in to the lazy sods, and install a bolt anchor to protect the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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