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slothrop

[TR] Beacon Rock- Young Warriors 9/24/2006

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so is beacon one of those secret non-secret crags like millcreek in utah?

 

ps - kevboner you are a jerk

 

slothrop, thanks for sharing

 

anyone want to go to beacon and do some spurt rappin off the trees?

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*sigh* For what it's worth, we topped out on YW and walked down the trail bolted and chopped into the cliff 90 years ago.

 

Dru, I'll trade you a YW topo for GPS coordinates of all those granite domes you're constantly posting photos of. (Beacon guys: I'm kidding! Dru would never give up the goods anyway.)

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Climb: Beacon Rock-Young Warriors

 

Date of Climb: 9/24/2006

 

Trip Report:

JosephH and a genuine local named Jim graciously showed me around Beacon Rock on Sunday. I'm posting a TR of a cragging trade route because it was lots of fun and I was impressed with Beacon.

 

If you haven't climbed Young Warriors, it's worth a trip to Beacon by itself. I'd go back for sure, especially since Joseph only let me lead the first pitch wink.gif The rock is great, even on the slightly less solid second pitch, the climbing is varied, and it goes pretty much to the top of the Rock in six pitches. Belays are comfy (especially the first!) and pro is good.

 

Joseph and Jim care a lot about the place and it shows. They've built incredible belay ledges out of moss and rocks, camoflaged the bolts, kept "historical" pins in place, and not scrubbed huge streaks in the rock. thumbs_up.gif

 

Unrelated to YW: If necessary, you can rap from the fat Metolius bolts on the right side of the ledge atop the first pitch of Cruisin' with a single 60m.

 

Gear Notes:

Two 50m ropes for a party of three

Rack to 2.5"

Ten single runners

Ropegun and living guidebook

 

Approach Notes:

Construction on Hwy 14 west of Beacon might slow you down

 

 

jimis the coolest, jim say's joseph is cool to. neither one of them post about beacon anymore. i would think you were cool if you didn't.

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holy shit - went out to do yw and take photos of every 5 meters of rock for the mother of all panaromics y-day and discovered what slothrop was saying 'bout the new belay - man, a fella can really rest his ass on some sweet spongy moss lining perfect benches at the base now - gonna make mushsmile.gif there at the end of the day far more leisurely - good to see that all that rock that was trundled down was put to good use smile.gif

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just the upper pitches - the awe-inspiring looseness of the butt-hole will probably forever constrain my stupidity

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and the last rule:

if this is your first time to beacon club, you have to climb young warriors!

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Climb: Beacon Rock-Young Warriors

 

Date of Climb: 9/24/2006

 

Trip Report:

JosephH and a genuine local named Jim graciously showed me around Beacon Rock on Sunday. I'm posting a TR of a cragging trade route because it was lots of fun and I was impressed with Beacon.

 

Just now noticed all this... Ralph - I was remiss in not explaining the first rule of Beacon Club - had I been paying attention to the fact you were in fact "slothrop" I probably would have asked you not post - my bad, not yours - but Jim and I both did enjoy climbing with you...

 

Unrelated to YW: If necessary, you can rap from the fat Metolius bolts on the right side of the ledge atop the first pitch of Cruisin' with a single 60m.

 

Jim and I also didn't really share what the point of the whole Cruisin' exercise that day was. It was related to a different issue that arose a week earlier and we were both simply verifying the rap was in fact possible from the existing p2 anchor as is and that it is still ill-advised for folks to do so. Both are the case: the anchor is fine as is and, while the choice is theirs, it's a bad rap with nothing to recommend it.

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Why does anyone care about giving out beta for Young Warriors? Everyone knows about this route anyhow. Go to Beacon on any busy day and invariably Cruisin, SE Face, and YW will have parties on it. Last time I was there there were two parties waiting at the base. Give it up, its not a secret route.

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Why does anyone care about giving out beta for Young Warriors? Everyone knows about this route anyhow. Go to Beacon on any busy day and invariably Cruisin, SE Face, and YW will have parties on it. Last time I was there there were two parties waiting at the base. Give it up, its not a secret route.

 

 

SSSHHHH, people will find out about it!!!!!! They will end up learning where the third pitch belay is! boxing_smiley.gif

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dont want to give that beelay staton up? seriously, what gives with the beecon rock shush shush?

 

some of you guys are the same ones complainin about homeland security, but thats what it looks like...

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dont want to give that beelay staton up? seriously, what gives with the beecon rock shush shush?

 

some of you guys are the same ones complainin about homeland security, but thats what it looks like...

 

you guys remind me of mr bush. "we can release part of the report, but the other part is some real top secret shitola."

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if ev'r one knew where young warriors was, then somebody might done take 11 hours on it and get punched out by headlamp on top...

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i've never experienced any sort of big line on yw in the years i've been dig'n on the Big B - while the all-sporto nature of the first pitch encourages some to gum it up by top-roping it, the ass-pucker-effect of the butt-hole pitch seems to keep the minimally-competent away - plus, there's so many other fine routes to do out there that even if yw is gett'n gang'banged, you can find equally pleasant diversions...

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The lack of crowds is because there is a pile of aging climbers milling about like suckers in a yellow jacket trap up above a crescent feature on p3 unable to go up, unable to go down. they've been there for several years now

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