Doug_Hutchinson Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I have never heard anyone spray about this linkup before and do not know why since every pitch is classic, has great belay spots, avoids Hyperspace's Pressure Chamber (after seeing someone epic in the Chamber for hours from Orbit a few years ago, I try to avoid even looking at the thing), and finishes on the best two Outer Space pitches. Reason for posting is to recommend this linkup and correct (I think) info about going from Iconoclast to the Shield/OS headwall pitches. P1 - Climb RPM (10+, R slab) or Remorse (.6 or .7). P2 - Traverse Remorse P2 to base of Psychopath (.8). P3 - Climb Psychopath (11-) or skip it on the left via an easier corner. Psychopath is awesome but PG-13 to R-rated and would be a scary-ass lead (I had the luxury of seconding - thanks Steve). Nelson describes it well: after a "fierce, thin, steep crack...the crack turns into a useless seam, so you get suckered out onto face holds to the left while the seam diagonals out to the right. The face holds end so you're balancing out on the face thinking you've screwed up, blinding trying to find a useful hold on the seam, and eventually have to a barn-doory move off the seam to get back into good finger locks." This crux happens about 12 feet above the last piece and there is still more runout hardish climbing to the belay. P4 - Iconoclast corner system - pitch 1. Goes up a crack and bypasses a small roof on the left; most guides rate this pitch .10 but felt easier. Fun, moderate, quality climbing. P5 - More of the Iconoclast corner. This pitch tackles a slightly overhanging, corner/crack system and then ends with some lower angle but dirtier moves to a two-bolt belay. This is an in-your-face lead that I felt was very pumpy to protect but steep and weird enough that I had to sew up. The holds and gear were good but felt like solid .10+ for about 25 feet in the middle. P6 - (This is where both the Smoot and Kramer guides have it a little off, I think). From this bolt belay, Hyperspace continues up the corner straight up, and there is a bolt up and right that leads to the Shield (and the continuation of Iconoclast). After clipping this bolt, there is a little sporty 10c, one seam that takes a good wire, one more 10c move to turn over to the Shield, then about 40 solid feet of runout .7 traversing on chickenheads to gain almost the bottom of the first OS headwall pitch (not Library Ledge as is stated). This a great pitch finishing with 100 feet of the world famous OS crack to Library Ledge. Buyer beware - the climbing on this pitch is very runout and requires a 70m rope. P7/8 - finish Outerspace. This and Colchuck Balanced Rock are the two best longer routes that I have done in the Leavenworth area and, for that matter, the whole range. OK, now is your chance to spray about how much more classic Hyperspace is (maybe next year)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 P6 - (This is where both the Smoot and Kramer guides have it a little off, I think). From this bolt belay, Hyperspace continues up the corner straight up, and there is a bolt up and right that leads to the Shield (and the continuation of Iconoclast). After clipping this bolt, there is a little sporty 10c, one seam that takes a good wire, one more 10c move to turn over to the Shield, then about 40 solid feet of runout .7 traversing on chickenheads to gain almost the bottom of the first OS headwall pitch (not Library Ledge as is stated). This a great pitch finishing with 100 feet of the world famous OS crack to Library Ledge. Buyer beware - the climbing on this pitch is very runout and requires a 70m rope. I remember from the second bolt climbing straight up ( 5.7ish knobs maybe slinging one or two along the way but otherwise runout) to a belay at a LFC (belay here if short rope) The LFC is a 5.8 handcrack that leads to the left side of Library Ledge. I think this link up is much better than the Hyperspace finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I remember it the way PP does, up to a crack that angled over to Library Ledge after clipping the bolt and edging around the corner. Seemed like you are already above the Pedestal at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 You do not need a 70m rope from (your P6) bolted belay to library ledge. A 60m reaches the bolted anchor on the left edge of LL just fine. The crack after psychopath is 5.8 at most, 5.9 if led all the way to the base of the yellow wall, about 50m. I agree, it's a very cool route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 What a shock - we must of got off route - I am very expert at it. Maybe we pioneered a new variation - traverse to just above the pedestal. Maybe we are just dumb. Thanks for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 i've led psychopath a few times now, am a quivering bitch, and did not find it spicy in the least. go figure. good idea 4 a link-up though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyree Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 DH I wouldnt worry too much about the HS pitch. It isnt that bad really, its pretty fun, good gear, heart pounding exposure, fun moves, all there. Go get some!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 I agree DH the CBR is a MSBatholith classic! It isnt that bad really, its pretty fun, good gear, heart pounding exposure, fun moves, all there. Go get some!! SO true: heartpounding and fun! if, you don't swallow your pounding heart. All there: yes, indeed. Its not even 5.11, as I am told, the key move is a trick...I gave up, after missing the jam around the fist jam and batmanned up to the lip. God, even the belay stance kinda makes your heart flutter. Now that I reminisce, I think this was DC and my first time up SCW and 1st climb together period. Good times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyree Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Yah, that was my first time up snow creek wall also, good times. It is a trick, to stay out of the pressure chamber that is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 err, i meant only dc and me climbing scw together, oops. we both climbed scw a few times before climbing this same linkup. yep, there is an uncanny draw to this feature. i think about that gut wrenching spin in space quite often. look fwd to the next battle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 err, i meant only dc and me climbing scw together, oops. we both climbed scw a few times before climbing this same linkup. Thanks for clearing that up, I was really wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 that is for the office time I spend in this toilet of seattle and not to you mr crazyJZ or anyone else...only for the reality of my pain sitting in this damn basement wasting valuable climbing hours............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 That is a classic outing. I did the very link-up you describe in 92' or 93'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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