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powderhound

first ascent [TR] FA Gloomy Ruminations IV 5.10, 8 pitches

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Sorry this post is a little late. The route was done on labor day weekend with Trevor Bowman and Neil Kaufman in the Beartooths, up rock creek outside of Red Lodge. The Pensive Spire on had one other route on it that followed the left ridge on the picture below. The route was a good rock and went farily well. We hiked in on saturday and set up camp and took our spoting scopes for a little hike and went out to pick a line and this is what we cam up with. The route we choose faced north west and did not get sun until noon so the first few hours were pretty cold to say the least. The pitchs were long we had two 70 meter ropes and five of the pitchs were a full 70 meters. Here is how the pitchs went:

 

Pitch 1: 5.6R 120 feet

 

scramble across scree

 

Pitch 2: 5.4R 140 feet up to the firt step

 

Pitch 3: 5.9 65 meters up the thin crack

 

Pitch 4: 5.8 70 meters up around the corner and back on to the step

 

Pitch 5: 5.9 70 meters up the around corner up the inside corner

 

Pitch 6: 5.8 55 meters up the corner system

 

6053pitch7.jpg

 

Pitch 7: 5.10 70 meters through the roofs and chimney

 

Pitch 8: 5.9 70 meters up the corner and scramble to end of rope.

 

6053last_pitch1.jpg

 

Scramble to the top fruit.gif

6053Top.jpg

 

Descent: Hike over to whitetail pass and take the easy switch backs back to camp.

 

Gear Notes: Doubles of everything up to #2 and one #3, many small cams and nuts.

 

Topo:

6053routetopo.JPG

 

Some other photots from trip:

6053towers.JPG

 

There was a crazy layer of smoke one night and it reflected the light weird and gave us these crazy colors on the range behind us.

6053sunsetsmokereal.JPG

Edited by powderhound

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How was the rock on that side of the buttress? I climbed the left side and it was downright terrifying at times. I have six nuts on my rack from people's rappel stations. I should have taken that as a clue. It also seemed considerably harder than what Brunckhorst has in his guidebook.

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The rock on on the lower two pitchs was supect, but when we actually got into the route the rock turned out ot be solid. Not to sya there wasn't lose sections but for a alpine FA there was realativley little. You should go do it it was a great climb and the setting is impressive.

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