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Jake_Gano

Rock of Sharon access?

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Has anyone been up to ROS lately? I bought the Bland guide and headed up there last weekend. There has apparently been a lot of developement since the book was published. We followed the driving directions as far as we could but found that with all the new roads it was hard to tell what was going on. We could see the rocks, and followed the every road back there that we could, but everything either ended in a house or a big 'private property, trespassers will be strung up by the balls' type sign.

 

So does anyone have current access info? Has some dickhead landowner cut off access via his road? Is there another approach?

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The Mountaineers are working with the county and the land owner to aquire that area (not sure on current details). Access seems kinda iffy to me. I've been up there a few times this year with a friend. We took the road straight up the center of the gully to a gate, which we went through and closed behind us. I was told the "No Trespassing" sign was for the property on the left, not the road. Still, felt uncomfortable because it was too hard to be sure I wasn't trespassing so haven't been back since. There's a blurb about the aquisition effort here if you're interested: http://www.spokanemountaineers.org/public_html/big_rock.htm

 

As far as new developement, we played on the new bolts on the south end of Big Rock - some nice routes. Can hardly wait for access to be straightened out so we can get in there and sample some more smile.gif I thought I heard Marty had put in a bunch of that new stuff? Maybe he has more details on how to get in there.

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Thank you for the Spokane Mountaineers link. It says they needed to raise the money by Sept. 9th. Does anyone in Spokane have an update how that went?

 

It seems like they didn't try very hard to get this money raised. I didn't see any pitch on this website, and nothing on the mailing list of the UI climbing club, or the WSU alpine club. In the future if access issue for inland NW climbs comes up I'd love to here about it. I'm as poor as any college kid but I can put up fliers at the outdoor program or the climbing wall. I'd hate to have access to this nice crag restricted because noone was stirring up any attention.

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NYC and I climbed up there about 6 weeks ago. the drive is a little different from the Bland guide. the new long routes on the west face are pretty good IMO.

 

I could probably draw it on a map, but not from memory.

 

Has some dickhead landowner cut off access via his road?

We did drive past an obvious "do not enter" or "private property" sign. just keep going and you'll see a sign that says "spokane county" or something about not shooting off firearms. park at the small dirt pullout and walk from there. 20 minutes to the Big Rock. hellno3d.gif

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I have yet to get a clear answer on the access issues for Rocks of Sharon. However, I do know that Bob Ordner and Eric Barrett have worked very hard to put a lot of the new lines in, particularly on the Big Rock. Some of the best lines up there, in my opinion. Thank guys!

Marty's directions are still valid, to my knowledge.

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Thanks for the info. We ended up going to Minne after we gave up trying to find the ros. There is a whole bunch of beautiful fresh graffitit right under Don Quixote.

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I think graffitti increases my sending ability on Don Q.

 

Hopefully the spring cleanup will have a sandblaster this year!

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What I can pass on:

 

Much has been printed in the local paper, and much is known by the climbers who frequent the Rocks of Sharon. I don’t want to screw the pooch, as the real estate deal that will save Big Rock and the RoS is presently in closing, and should happen “sometime later this month.” If/when it does, Big Rock and much of the property containing the Rocks of Sharon will transfer from private hands to public. We’ll all know when it happens, as the news will be publicized and there will be a public ceremony.

 

Access has not been an issue for climbers and others who show respect when entering the area, and we as climbers have tried to keep a low public profile since the PR debacle two years ago. I don’t have Marty’s book in front of me; indeed it shouldn’t be any different from the time his book was printed: from the Palouse Highway, follow Stevens Creek Road to the south. However, it should be pointed out the couple spots near the end of the road where parking is acceptable.

 

I tried to place markers for these 2 park spots in Google Earth’s Community layer, but didn’t have the patience. Here’s coordinates you can punch in:

 

Parking Spot #1: 47 deg. 34’ 06.8” N, 17 deg. 17’ 22.1” W

For vehicles without clearance this spot is just before a small ditch an adjacent property owner had to dig to drain flood water from his property. When the property is purchased, we’ll have to place a culvert here. The road is the middle fork you come to at the end of the public portion of the road.

 

Parking spot #2: 47 deg. 34’ 21.9” N, 17 deg. 17’ 22.2” W

Only about 5’ walking distance away from parking spot #1, this spot is for high-clearance vehicles that can clear the ditch—a Toyota 4WD P/U can, a Subaru can’t. It’s the large, fairly level bladed-out area just south of Big Rock. Please don’t drive beyond this up the hill; it’s only about a 10’ hike uphill to Big Rock from here. This will likely be the established parking area once the property is in public hands.

 

Regarding the the $46,000, and for those of you who would like to donate or become involved:

The $46K amount is what was promised to be paid in addition to the land being swapped in order to obtain the 80-acre Rocks of Sharon parcel. The Spokane Mountaineers as a club have pledged to make up any difference in the $46K amount needed, so that is not an issue that would keep the deal from taking place. Outside of the club, many individuals have donated—and others have expressed intent to donate—to contribute to the $46K needed. The Spo Mounties don’t want to take away the opportunity from any individuals who would like to make a tax-deductible contribution and be a part of this important conservation effort.

 

The payment of the $46,000 will be part of the closing, thus the original announcement by the Spo Mounties for individuals to donate by Sept. 9. The announcement has not been updated, but because the closing date has been pushed back, individuals still have the opportunity to donate. I don’t know of a drop-dead date.

 

The property will be part of the overall public reserve managed by the Dishman Hills Natural Area Association, who also provided the acreage for which the RoS is being swapped for. They are a 501©3 nonprofit, while the Spo Mounties are not; thus the DHNAA is more appropriate to receive all money for this project. As mentioned at the Spo Mounties website, checks should be made out to the DHNAA—you should also reference the Rocks of Sharon acquisition and the Spokane Mountaineers.

 

Once the deal is closed, we’ll have much work to do to rehab the area and provide for appropriate parking and access. If more than the $46K is collected, that will go toward the improvements that will need to be made. If you’re interested in helping out you can contact me or the Spo Mounties.

 

Sorry to hear about the new graffiti at Minne's Don Q. I'm sure it will get removed before or during next spring's cleanup.

 

Steve Reynolds

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Steve,

 

Thanks for the update. I've been trying to get hold of you regarding Minne cleanup efforts but can't reach you via your email. Can you send me your latest and greatest address to tim@spotly.com?

 

Thanks

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Greetings All:

 

A couple of things:

 

1) Jake, I wanted to make sure everyone knows that the landowner who put up the "No Trespassing" signs is not the enemy. He is actually a pretty cool guy named Chad who I have run into several times and, although not a climber, he doesn't seem to mind climbers passing over his lower driveway - he's not too fond of the motorcycles that rip up the hillside or the drunk shooters that favor the big parking area. He's the guy who keeps the driveway graveled and plowed, and has actually maintained a small pull-out for folks to park in. He just doesn't want people driving up and turning around in his front yard or sending rounds over his roof.

 

2) Steve, nice write up on the parking situation - very accurately described (although I didn't check the Lat-Long coordinates.) and also a good update on the DHNAA land swap/acquisition. This area will be a treasure when it is finalized! You are absolutely right about the need for some trail work days. The approach trails have supported a small climbing community but will braid and erode with heavier use, and the entry road and parking area will be a long-overdue project.

 

Look forward to meeting some of you folks in person soon.

 

Eric Barrett

Spokane, WA

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any word on access to ROS? did the land deal go through? i spent a very pleasant day there once a couple of summers ago. i'd love to go back sometime.

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Good folks are still working on it. My understanding is that verbal agreements have been reached, lawyers are finalizing the deal and agreement is yet to be signed. There *might* be something to report in the next couple weeks. When the deal is closed, there will certainly be a public announcement.

 

Some more not-too-recent info here at Dishman Hills Natural Area Association, who with Spokane Mountaineers and others, are making this all possible.

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I'd just like to point out when you guys get legal access and boldering development begins in force, I FA'd all the Baby Snakes problems back in the late 90's. And they'z good too.

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I'd love to hear some info on the new routes if anybody has any. I saw a couple of guys do the long one on the west face and then RK and I did it like the following week over a year ago, I am not sure if that is one of the new routes. I heard it was 10c, but again am not sure. (we hit a couple of rough spots near the top, but made it nonetheless) Thanks.

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I have done a few of the West Face routes. pretty fun. It's wierd how they're bolted as 2-3 pitch routes when a single 60 gets you to the top...

 

the few I did felt in the 5.10 range. the righthand most line (starts as 5.8 bolts to an anchor) that pulls the big roof is still unclimbed from what I heard, but it was apparent to me that if I did more situps it wouldn't be that hard. probably mid/hard 11.

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