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Clipping biners


scrambled_legs

Do you keep the biner's on your draws opposite or just upside down?  

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  1. 1. Do you keep the biner's on your draws opposite or just upside down?

    • 1872
    • 1872


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muja says that the stiff side of the dogbone is for the bolt, and I don't think this is quite correct.

 

yr porbly right matt, I have long since dis-and-re assembled my draws to facilitate my "midget" 5'9" reach.. I know for sure doe that the bent gate is for da rope , I hope.. grin.gif

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fuck...you guys are morons...but i have to say that there was one case where i had a draw come completely unclipped w/o a fall once for me...the roof out on Kings of Rap has a bolt in the middle of the wall as you traverse out...the quickdraw "rolled" over the top of the bolt (a metolius ring bolt) and unclipped itself from just the pull of the rope as i pulled out and around the roof into the jug...This actually occurred *often* enough that its pretty well known with old generation smiff climbers. You can easily replicate it with those bolts at smith. Modern hangers are sloped enough that this is pretty impossible (unlikely) to happen.

 

Because of this situation that RumR is talking about I used to have the gates facing in different opposite directions. In order to prevent unclipping in those situations I would rotate the biner that was clipped to the bolt, this way the gate couldn't get pushed opened by the bolt.

 

Now-a-days I don't bother, that was when I was super paranoid. In most cases this does not happen, so I stopped doing it.

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