alexbaker Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 I'm not sure myself. Discuss. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 the best .11a crack in the lower gorge is the one having the most fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 Maybe I should ask just, whats the best crack in the lower gorge, regardless of grade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 The best crack is the one having the most fun, regardless of grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 On the Road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 my favorite 11a in the lower gorge (or the park for that matter) is cry of the poor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Master Looney (although not ness a "crack climb") is fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Best climb in gorge, regardless of grade. 10.b to the right of On the Road. 4 star climb. the name is escaping me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 kevbone, you're thinking of badfinger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 regardless of grade: Morning Star, Prometheus, Last Chance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 kevbone, you're thinking of badfinger. Thanks, I knew it had something to do with finger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillygoat Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Pure Palm (I kid, I kid!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 if we start a thread on "most hated crux" in the lower gorge, i'd like to nominate blood clot. anyone else feel like showing some hate? PS: i'll second morning star and cry of the poor as the best of the gorge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillygoat Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 if we start a thread on "most hated crux" in the lower gorge, i'd like to nominate blood clot. Oh man, I hear you! I got my ass handed to me on that route! Sometimes that inspires me to dig deeper, but in that case... I walked away. Thanks, but no thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 ...thread drift to keep this thread alive, we should start a list of our favorite routes in the lower gorge regardless of grade or style. in no order: -cry of the poor -last chance -original sin -try to be hip -mantra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I think Master Looney is pretty fuckin' cool. Full on roof jammin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 The best crack is the one having the most fun, regardless of grade. What a clever, cute, and ultimately original idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 alright, so it was thread drift. but i had to mention blood clot. yech. i can hardly type the words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I liked Blood Clot. My most hated crux is on Quasar Bring on the Lower Gorge recommendations, I am making a fall tick list I haven't been on many .11s there but it seems like at those grades they start to become more face-climb less pure crack climb ... or at least the cruxs are face climbing sections to access easier cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Wow, likes Blood Clot but hates Quasar. On the Road is an excellent climb if you survive the first 20 feet. Last Chance is incredible, along with Prometheus. Not a crack climb, but if you can yard your way through White Trash, the upper 5.10 extension is phenomenal jug hauling and way easier than it looks. 70m advisable, 60m could get you to the big boulder. And Bush Doctor! And this! The approach (until a friend hacked it up with a machete): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 And this! nice pic cobra. this beauty could only be the very aesthetic and beautiful masquerade! did you climb this? hats off to you if you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 did you climb this? hats off to you if you did. Not a chance, but we did gaze at it for awhile wondering what it would be like climbing on that small gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 hey Cobra_Commander ... what's that bolted thing on the Shakespeare cliff that I was TRing last year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 hey Cobra_Commander ... what's that bolted thing on the Shakespeare cliff that I was TRing last year? measure for measure 11d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 best in lower gorge: cry of the poor last chance badfinger etc etc etc pretty effing great and no chalk (personal favs) bold line lion of judah southern cross night shift full court press soft touch (cause i like one star routes that are better than Moonshine) Nice to see the Bush Doctor shot. Does that climb see 2 ascents a year? I doubt it. Masquerade is likely unrepeated on lead. Watts' talent is underestimated. If anyone can pull the direct start to Lion of Judah (12a?) I'd love to see it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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