does a nw 5.10 equal 5.8 in the valley?

[Rad]

Comparing ratings across different styles of climbing is meaningless. Better to compare a 5.8 handcrack with a 5.9 handcrack than with a 5.8 slab or a 5.8 gym monkey route. Most indoor training and X32/38 don't really prepare one for trad crack climbs, which may be why people find them "hard for the grade". Also, cracks are often more strenenuous than face climbs, in part because it usually takes longer to place and clip trad gear than to clip a bolt. It takes practice to efficiently find and place trad gear. Less practice means it takes longer which means you pump out more.

 

The saying I've always heard is "when in doubt run it out." There has to be a calculated balance of consequences, but too much thinking is bad too.

 

If you're only willing to lead routes where you have pro every bodylength then there are a lot of routes you will never do - and you will take forever on longer routes - as we know, in the alpine speed is a big part of safety too.

 

Regarding Jello Tower SF, I didn't think it was sandbagged. I did just what MattP suggested, place gear and go. Just as I was reaching the rest I looked down to see my supposedly solid nut had come out. Thankfully, I didn't fall.

[TeleRoss]

I bet if you climbed sfjt or Canary with only your right foot and left hand they would be like 5.11X...that would be so sick!

[G-spotter]

hey now don't steal my idea for getting my name into the mags

[Mr_Phil]

... but too much thinking is bad too.

 

Like that's going to happen around here.