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Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?


gertlush

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hey, it doesn't have to be clean and free from vegetation to be good climbing. i've climbed it a cpl times in summer (and once in winter). the route-finding is kinda challenging on site, but it's accurately marked in Fairley. keep thinking "right" once you get onto the main face above the 1st ledge...

and may I suggest a hammer and 3 or 4 pitons?

 

the "direct" face up the centre (from the tiny snowpatch snown in Fairley just down and left from the "2") has had a cpl of attempts, one of which (if memory serves me correctly) included one of the Haberl brothers attempting to turn a rather large block into a parapente.

 

as for the NE buttress, there is one especially delicious ropelength on which you belay in a tree, climb the entire ropelength in trees/bush (essentially without touching the ground), and belay again in a tree - it just doesn't get better! or, maybe, more unique...

 

enjoy, cheers, don

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! rolleyes.gif) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them.

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  • 1 month later...

Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing cantfocus.gif

 

5362Cam.JPG

Edited by Ponzini
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