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lib crack - bolted line to right?


iain

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i stumbled upon a rap-bolted line on SEWS a few weeks ago. quite over-bolted, much like condorphamine addiction route. i imagine it was put up by the same person. i'll let the bolt-choppers know where it is,just as soon as i climb it. wink.gif

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i stumbled upon a rap-bolted line on SEWS a few weeks ago. quite over-bolted, much like condorphamine addiction route. i imagine it was put up by the same person. i'll let the bolt-choppers know where it is,just as soon as i climb it. wink.gif

 

Another Leland debacle. Free at 5.13 or so, or 5.11 C1 (or 5.7 c1, for that matter). Stupid fucking route, should be chopped.

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Freedom or Death, bolted by P. Butler & E. Helmuth, freed by Wallstein & Wallstein's brother about 5 years ago. 11+ or so...

anybody got more beta on this route? seems like a pretty reasonable grade as far as a free line up the east face of lib bell is concerned. any beta appreciated, thanks.

sol

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Here's what Wallstein sent me about it, can't see why he wouldn't mind me posting it:

 

"the first pitch is 10+ or so. All bolted if I remember. The next two are 11+ plus the 2nd being slightly easier. the pitch that traverses into lib crack is also 5.11 and slightly runout if I remember. It traverses back into lib crack right and the last few fixed heads. I clipped them for pro and remember busting some moves above them. Some might consider it runout but the heads seemed bomber. It is a super good route and a reasonable way to free liberty bell. It was bolted by paul butler and Eli Helmuth and then it was freed by me and brother 5 or so yeas ago. You should go do it!"

 

enjoy.

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Eli put in most of the work on this route. I think it was 1998...it could have been the year before. Originally it was two pitches which we freed, but we never did the final link up pitch with Liberty Crack. John and Mike sent the whole thing after adding a station to the second pitch because it was too long. So the first pitch goes at 5.10+ with mostly bolts, but some gear at the start especially when the snow is all gone. The second pitch is 5.11 with all bolts. The third is hard 5.11, maybe 12a, with bolts and a cam placment or two. The link up pitch under the roof sounds like it goes at 5.11 – all gear except for what is fixed on Liberty Crack.

It is a great variation – stellar climbing.

 

Paul Butler

Mazama

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