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MrC

[TR] Sahale- Quien Sabe Glacier 8/23/2006

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Climb: Sahale-Quien Sabe Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 8/23/2006

 

Trip Report:

Miners trail to Boston Basin, 3 hours. Stayed at Boston Basin till 10:15.

Scrambled up boulder fields to glacier by 12:00 or so. Stay close to the moraine on left. Direct approach was extremely crevassed--no path through to be seen.

 

Roped-up near Sharkfin for glacier climb, icy for about 10 meters before moving to right and toward Sahale. Cancelled climb at 2:00 due to bergshrund being severely undercut right under tower and unable to reach the right snow bridge, white-out also added to problems.

Back to Boston Basin by 4, left at 4:30.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, ice ax, 30 meter rope and 60 meter rope for two teams. Shoulda had 5 ice screws!!

 

Approach Notes:

Miners trail dusty, overgrown, and long.

 

No snow till glacier at about 7500 feet.

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Mr. C. We were up there on Sunday-Mon. We took the direct route up through the crevasse fields and was icy and fun and most could be jumped over. The upper scrund was easily passed to the right. It was clear and visibility was great so made route finding easy. It is a beautiful place to be for sure.

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Plenty of folks climbing it today, didn't look like there were any crevasse issues. You can just make out the boot path heading to the right of the bergshrund:

38QuienSabe.JPG

 

I guess being able to see makes all the difference.

Edited by philfort

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Yeah, I am gonna blame the whiteout...:)

 

But in all seriousness, I could barely make out my followers on the way down, and I could not see my leader on the way up. View would of sucked anyway...

 

hmmm, all out of excuses now...

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Soloed up Sahale from Boston Basin lower camp last Friday (8/26), and it was great (clear, cool weather). Saw two teams of four turn around, but the next day I could see a couple of other teams going up (I was in the Mt. Torment area).

 

Partners got back from the Torment-Forbidden traverse on Saturday afternoon, and we could see a flash of metal up on the Sahale summit, so I guess someone else made it up there too.

 

The day before (24th) when we hiked in the visibility was complete crap. It rained overnight too.

 

btw We all came up from California and Nevada and noticed that there were no summit registers on the more popular peaks (Cutthroat, Forbidden, Sahale, Liberty Bell). Registers have been disappearing in the Sierra for a while, too ...

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