Kyle_Flick Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Climb: Mount Terror-North Face Date of Climb: 8/18-20/2006 Trip Report: On Friday, Paul Kelly and I hiked in from Goodell Creek and passed below East McMillan Spire enroute to camp on Stetattle Ridge. The Ridge is similarly narrow and exposed as the Torment-Forbidden Traverse with a couple of chavel moves tossed in for grins. The next morning we dropped into McMillan Cirque and headed for the Barricade in what looked like a couple of hours work. Several hours later having crossed numerous gullies and moving as quickly as possible with the seracs of the McMillan Glacier periously perched above us, we finally rapped into the deep cleft before the Barricade. Crossing the Barricade wasn't too bad at about 5200'. We reached the base of the snow of the north face of Terror around 2:30 p.m. and spent another hour and half climbing steep snow and up and around crevasses in the hope of getting on the rock at 6200'. But we hit water ice and without more substantial crampons and ice tools, we felt it was foolhardy to pursue the higher approach onto the rock. We then dropped down several hundred feet and crossed the moat near the toe of the buttress around 4:00 pm. Good quality rock was the rule as we made our way up the exposed and mostly unprotectable fourth and low fifth class. We bivied about 500 feet below the summit at a notch with a large snow patch available to melt water. The next morning, after discovering a snafflehound had eaten the strap of my ski pole, we headed up the steep section before the west ridge. We encountered two pitches of 5.7--5.8. We topped out about 11:30 am and began descending the west ridge around noon. Rapping into the gully my partner knocked a rock loose onto his shin. After some first aid to stop the bleeding, we gingerly made our way down the loose gully. We made one more rap and were out into the Cresent Basin after 3:00 p.m. Crossing the Barrier was simple enough as was finding the Ridge down to Terror Creek, but the path was hard to find in places. Luckily in fading light we crossed the creek and located the old trail on the other side which took us back to our tennis shoes stowed at the road/trail turnoff for Terror Basin. Suffice it to say we were late getting home and to work the next day. But a finer tour of the Southern Pickets would be hard to find. I'll try and add pictures later. Gear Notes: Small alpine rack up to 3" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarch Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Snaffles strike again! Nice trip, got any pictures to display Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Nice work! Would love to see some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Hurray -- you can finally take this off the list! Way to go. Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der_Wanderer Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 It's a great route. You guys smoked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountaingirlBC Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 nice... very much looking forward to the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted August 26, 2006 Author Share Posted August 26, 2006 See pictures in alpine and climbing galleries (8/26/06). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 I want to hear about the true crux of your climb...posting pictures in gallery. Your actually integrating them into your TR will be like a 5.11 slab move. Anyway, nice pics, though the summit shot....hmmmm...where are the nughugger shorts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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