scheissami Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 I know there's been a ton of debate over which ropes are actually any good, but I wondered who's used some of the new skinny ropes out there. I'm debating between a Mammut 8.9mm Serenity or the 9.2mm Revelation vs Beal 9.1mm Joker. The prices are all about the same.... What's your take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 I'd guess that whatever you can find cheapest. I think the Revelation had a little better numbers as far as the fall rating (vs. the Joker, not sure about the Serenity); I'm sure any of them would do the job fine. I have a Joker; two of my pals have Revelations. Just don't be stupid and buy the black version of the Joker like I did (duh). You have to be creative to come up with a durable middle mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 I'm sure any of them would do the job fine. That all depends on what the "job" is, wouldn't it? So many people are always asking what rope to get without giving a clue as to its intended use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Catbird, Please describe a "job" where one of those ropes, but not the others, would be appopriate. Bonus points for charts and diagrams. I like Mammut ropes and have the Revelation and like it just fine. I'd probably go with whichever one you can get for the least $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Not sure if "Jobs" would be as much a factor as sheaths. Not sure about the Joker, but I've got a Beal 9.4 and Mammut 8.0, and like the softness of the Mammut....little easier to work with. Not sure if the sheath qualities are similar in their other ropes. I've found the Stiffer Beal seems to get twisted up more easily and frequently...and have heard that that can be due to the sheath stiffness. Could also be due to poor rope management. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Serenity Now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 The (clever and hilarious) continutation of this thread that the moderators chose to move elsewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 Thanks... That "Revelation" did remind me of the bonus of the duoweave thingie--spendy but potentially worth it. The "job" I want the rope to perform: lightweight alpine rock rope; I suck too hard to climb hard shit , but I wanted something that was lightweight on the approach, rated as a single rope, long (70m), and safe (decent fall force, middle mark, etc.). Initially leaning toward the Serenity cuz it's soooo thin and light, but the duoweave thingie is nice. On the other hand, the Joker has lower fall force than either of those (though it held the same number of falls). My suspicion is that they're all about the same, whatever the numbers say. I wanted to chat with peeps who'd actually used them to see their subjective opinions (handling, problems with twisting, favorite brand, etc.). Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 I'd discourage getting a 70m rope; it's just extra weight to carry. On most alpine climbs (especially ridge climbs which dominate the sub 5.9 choices) your pitches will be short. Usually shorter than 50m, but I think a 60m rope is a good length because a lot of rappels are set up for 30m. Other than that, I think you are correct that any of those ropes will get the job you describe done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 and you can't pass deftly with all that extra weight, now can you!!:???!??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 HONK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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