MT,CONSTANCE

[marek]

chriss and myself did constance on sep 30th

via std, rte from lk, constance.if you travel close to each other(as you should!)the rock fall will not kill you.but it is

loose!otherwise it took us 14hrs tound trip

from the car.we decided not to take crampons,

so crossing couple of snow/ice patches took

time.basicly i had to chopp steps like they

did 100 years ago.finger traverse was fun,but

i still would give it a 4th class over 3rd.

the expose is dedly.summit ridge funn 3rd class.would we take crampons it would be 12hrs trip.i bet you can still do it!

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[climberbro16]

yea I did Finger Traverse on my trip. Here is a picture of the optional Terrible traverse that you could also take. http://www.geocities.com/jrstrader2000/TerribleTraverse.htm found htis searchen around on the net. Well glad you made it.

Chris

[David_Parker]

I sure would like some good beta on finding the finger traverse. I soloed Constance in June via the north chute & terrible traverse. Once you get to the upper pass where you get over onto the east side, (slight descent to get to terrible traverse)where do you go? The climbers guide description just seems confusing to me and I didn't want to get lost by myself. Sure can be confusing up there!

[marek]

david!

1st,from the lake go to south chute

2nd,then desend 100-200ft and go up and

left between rebitt ears and some big rock

on the right,at first this is loose scree

trail and then narrow chute class 3,this tops out at a narrow notch.

3rd,desend 100 ft and go over snow patch again up and left for 200 ft against the rocks.

4th,go counterclockwise to a small ledge up

and yet again left class2-3 loose to bigger

bench with trail on grassy easy terain

5th you should be at the finger traverse,

and one more time aroun the corrner up and left.

6th again counterclocwise to a downsloping

slab,keep on the left side against a cliff

(it looks not so good but once you get down few feet you will see its a class 3 for a short time and then some easy benches)

marek

ps, take a rope!

quote:

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Originally posted by David Parker:

I sure would like some good beta on finding the finger traverse. I soloed Constance in June via the north chute & terrible traverse. Once you get to the upper pass where you get over onto the east side, (slight descent to get to terrible traverse)where do you go? The climbers guide description just seems confusing to me and I didn't want to get lost by myself. Sure can be confusing up there!

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[mvs]

This is a good illustrated trip report about the route:

http://students.washington.edu/ericeh/Trips/Constance/MtConstance2.htm

Congradulations, Marek

--Michael

 

[David_Parker]

FYI, the north chute tops out at almost the same level as the "narrow notch" mentioned in previous post. You have to downclimb into the chute and then back up to this narrow notch. In June, when I did it, the south chute was all scree. In comparison, it was much easier to continue up avalanche canyon on hard snow and the north chute was beautiful hard neve making for delightful steep climbing. Once on the east side, I took off my crampons because the snow was already soft from morning sun. I did come down the standard way by passing the cat's ears and then down the south chute. Good scree skiing and being solo I didn't have to worry about knocking stuff down on anyone. So this was fast conditions and I did it in 9 hrs car to car. I like doing it even earlier when it is all snow from the lake. Those boulders suck! For those thinking of doing it, just know it's over 6,000 vert ft. from the car!