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need beta for cruiser and constance


quikclimber

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I've climbed Constance twice in the winter and once in the late summer. The winter trips were far superior experiences. I've climbed both the North and South Gullys and the North is definitely much better. It's steep and strenuous but both times I've been up it the snow was firm neve. The time I climbed it in the late summer we went up the South Gully and ended up in the ER after I knocked a rock down that hit my buddy in the leg. Think scree nightmare. The approach up Avalanche Gulch is also much better in the winter as you can just snowshoe across the lake and up the gulch rather than scramble over a mile of loose talus and boulders. I would definitely do it as a day trip. It took me 6 hours car to car solo w/ a light pack.

For Cruiser, the best approach is the standard one in the climber's guide. It's about 10 miles on good trail. I climbed it last september and made the mistake of not bringing crampons. Even with ice axes we had to find a very precarious route through the moat and 'shrund to get past the steep ice gully. The rock climbing is easy but exposed enough that I wouldn't do it without a rope. Just bring a few small stoppers for pro and you'll probably feel fine. We climbed it in one long day after bivying at the trailhead.

I think the Olympics are an immensely overlooked opportunity for winter mountaineering. I'm sorry to see the cracks in the North Cascades turning into waterfalls, but I'm excited about the coming opportunities on the other side of the Sound.

[This message has been edited by mneagle (edited 09-27-2001).]

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