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mythosgrl

[TR] Mt. Logan- The harder summit (East summit i think....) 8/13/2006

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Climb: Mt. Logan-The harder summit (East summit i think....)

 

Date of Climb: 8/13/2006

 

Trip Report:

On August 11th Blake Herrington and I headed out from Stehekin to go climb Mt. Logan. I was pretty excited about it because it was my first backpacking trip and alpine climbing trip!

 

We got a ride up to the end of the road (where the first wash-out is) and stashed our bikes so that we would not have to walk back down the road at the end of our hike.

 

The first day we just hiked and fished for 3 miles along the road to Bridge Creek and stayed the night there. The next day we continued on the road to Park Creek Pass Trail. When we were on the Stehekin Road we saw a bear eating berries! He was a cutie

 

10221bear.JPG

 

It was pretty hot outside so Blake and I dunked our heads in the river each time we filled our water bottles.

 

10221it_was_hot.JPG

 

We followed the trail up to Park Creek Pass

 

10221parkcreek_trail.JPG

 

10221more_lovely_parklands.JPG

 

and camped about 1/4 mile on the West side of the pass for the night.

 

The next day we packed a day pack and headed off-trail through the lovely alpine meadows. Blake whistled at marmots and pointed out picas.

 

We reached the Fremont glacier and got out our ice axes and put on our crampons. Blake's kept falling off so he just didn't use them. The snow was pretty soft and we were only on the glacier for about 15 mins max.

 

 

10221glacier.JPG

There was only one crevasse that we had to cross and the glacier was not steep at all.

 

10221more_glacier.JPG

 

We had doubled up the rope for walking on the glacier and just kept it that way for the rock climbing... which made for lots of short pitches. I want to say we did 10 pitches or so. The climb went up and around the back of the mountain.

 

10221more_rock_climbing.JPG

 

This pic is of me wondering how many more we have left...

 

10221more_pitches.JPG

 

We finally go to the top though and happily ate our bagels from the Stehekin bakery.

 

10221we_made_it_.JPG

 

10221blake.JPG

 

The view of the Eastside was hazy because of the forest fires

 

10221hazy_from_the_fires.JPG

 

but the view of the westside was pretty good

 

10221the_view_from_the_top.JPG

 

Going up the mountain was definitely easier than going back down. We made 2 rappels and did some sketchy scrambling on loose rock that I was not too fond of. Blake said he had forgotten that getting down last year was a bit of a challenge as well when he climbed Logan.

 

I did enjoy walking back down the alpine meadows to get back to camp.

 

10221lovely_parklands.JPG

 

And of course also enjoying some water from glacier run-off

 

10221water.JPG

 

The next day we hiked back to Stehekin from Park Creek Pass

 

10221parkcreek_pass.JPG

 

All in all it was a great trip for my first time! Couldn't have asked for better weather, a better route, or a better climbing partner.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons were optional. Had ice axes just incase. Used small cams and nuts. Had 2 larger hexes.

 

Approach Notes:

Stehekin road to Park Creek Pass Trail. Once over pass, went off-trail to the mountain. Climbed the summit to the right as you look at the mountain from the Fremont glacier. I guess it'd be the east summit? It's the one you can't just walk up.

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Nice pics! Ahh, warm sunny North Cascades summer climbing. bigdrink.gif

 

Damn, Blake, I guess that one time I met ya, your helmet hid your blonde hair....or you're gettin' out alot this summer!

 

Nice TR, thanks for the report.

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I call BS you're not wearing mythos in any of the pictures.

 

but your photos do have a recurrent narrative theme of fun and a plot structure of good times had by all.

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I think its just the 'Middle Summit'. Probably about 4 or 5 full-length pitches of rock up to 5.6ish. It looks taller than the (slightly) taller true summit from the glacier and is a more intersting climb. Allison did a good job on her first backpacking trip except she was a bit hard to keep up with sometimes. Next time she has to carry the HCL.gif , bigdrink.gif , and guard it better from the hungry snaf.gifsnaf.gifsnaf.gif

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Next time she has to carry the HCL.gif

 

I can't speak for Alison, but if that's a prerequisite to going climbing with you, I certainly ain't going. hellno3d.gif

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Blake, we didn't even have sausage!

 

Cobra_Commander-I was not wearing my mythos because the rock climbing was easy enough to just do in my montrail trail runners. GUess i'll just have to find some harder alpine climbs. Blake, wanna do Gunsight again? wink.gif

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