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DirtyHarry

[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006

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Climb: Pernod Spire-Indirect West Face

 

Date of Climb: 8/4/2006

 

Trip Report:

Two weekends during a flailed attempt to find a new line on one of the wine spires I spotted a potential line on a west facing buttress to the looker's left of Pernod Spire that looked like it led to upper Pernod.

 

6195pernodpillar.JPG

 

Without giving the route a go we desended back into the valley due to little white things falling from the sky.

 

6195snow.JPG

 

 

Returned this past Saturday with Cappelini and Rolf and climbed it. The Initial butress was the best part, going in 4 pitches, with the upper two pitches being the best. It went at about 5.8, 5.10, 5.9, 5.10.

 

6195indirect_face_pernod.JPG

 

 

Above the buttress was a sandy gully that the Bale Nelson route goes through. I was hoping the route we climbed could stay on the rock ridge visible from the base, but that would be pretty contrived as the gully was right next to it. I scrambled on the rock anyway though.

 

The Nelson Bale route continues way up the gully and climbs a final 5.10 pitch to the summit. We stayed closer to the west face of Pernod and geared up for what looked like a stellar hand crack leading to the summit ridge. It turned out to be a thin finger crack which turned into a seem for about 10 feet. Dan climbed a stellar but dirty 5.10 finger crack to get to it then up some precariosly stacked and huge loose blocks before realizing it wasn't a hand crack and he'd used all his small gear getting to it. He eventually built a belay and brought us up then I led the seem using a few points of direct aid.

 

Another easy pitch on dirty loose rock led to the summit ridge. Heading toward the summit tower we realized we'd have to rap down towards the gully then climb the final pitch of the Bale Nelson route if we wanted to summit, as Ross and Tony had done on their route. As it was 7:30 and we were running out of light we made two rappels into the gully and headed down.

 

As it was our descent plan had us rapping down the buttress that the Nelson Bale route goes up in the darkness. Maybe going over the to the east side would have been quicker?

 

Anyway, a decent route with some good adventure.

 

6195IWF1.JPG

 

6195IWF2.JPG

 

6195IFW3.JPG

 

6195IWF4.JPG

 

6195IFW5.JPG

 

6195IFW5.JPG

 

6195IWF6.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Dan's new rack.

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Nice!

Cool peak. That 5.10 upper pitch of the Nelson/Bale route is pretty stellar

Don't know if down the east side is faster. A few more raps I think, plus then you have to go all the way around and up to Burgundy Col and then down.

nice work.

thumbs_up.gif

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They're great holds until / unless they peel off. But the top two pitches of the initial buttress were pretty stellar, I'll post some photographic depictions tomorrow.

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Looks like there some other stuff up there too. wazzup.gif

 

Nothin' gets by you. rolleyes.gif

 

 

Congrats to DH, et al. thumbs_up.gif

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hahaha.gif

 

yeah way to go cappellini, rat and specialED, err, I mean dirtyHarry.

 

My partner never called on sunday for my adventure plans nor did any last minute frantic phone calls pan out....

 

so, I ended up really drunk in belltown. fuking hate that sheit...

 

 

ALL PEOPLE<<<< if you must bail on a trip...call your partner at least....

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wave.gif soorrry ben... you should just give up on me, others have...

 

<<<alert>>> bobbyp is a flake!

 

anyway good job fellas! bigdrink.gif

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But its always a good time when you do show up!

 

What's so fun about lending/supplying him a hat, a puffy, a shirt, a sleeping pad, a sleeping bag, a pot, food, spoon/fork, a pack, herbage, locking carabiners, $ for bigdrink.gif, and on, and on...

 

"but I bring a possitive attitude..."

 

bah, I prefer haters who come supplied...

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Yeah, fuck off. You can't talk shit about Kevin. Only we can talk shit about Kevin.

 

i dont know about that peter, I think ol' ron has room to talk here...

 

its not like I am that pissed Kev...just fuking call. hahaha.gif

 

oh and btw pete, did you guys summit or not??...i am confused from dan's phone account vs. your tr. course I did not read the TR very carefully either.... yellowsleep.gif

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hey man, i just looked at the pics cuz dan gave me the deets on the phone but from the words I read it seemed as you summited the main tower....did you or did you not? not that it fukin matters either way....

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hey man, i just looked at the pics cuz dan gave me the deets on the phone but from the words I read it seemed as you summited the main tower....did you or did you not? not that it fukin matters either way....

 

Do you know how to read? Do they speak English where you live?

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Fuk off pete. i dont care anymore. I am going to racha for tiger salad goodness.

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