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Double/Half Rope as Single on glaciers


JAL

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Another thing to watch for is that a pulley that autoblocks a prussik on a fatter rope might instead suck the prussik in and jam when used on a skinny rope. This happened to me once on a rescue practice, causing our z-pulley system to turn into a c without our realizing. The jam also resulted in all slack we had pulled up zipping back out when we let go instead of getting locked off w/ the prussik.

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lots of people use a single half rope for glacier travel. personally, i've also used a half rope for alpine ice too... maybe not the safest, but nice and light. just be aware that it's a thin rope that won't take a ton of sharp-edge abuse and because it stretches so much, complex cravasse rescue systems are a bit of a pain in the ass. i'd never use a single half rope on any technical rock as it could get cut shocked.gif.

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One can use a half rope for technical rock. The pitches will be short. I have used a half rope for short rock pitches with one climber tieing into the middle of the rope (with a bowline on a bight or other good knot) and the other climber tie into BOTH ends of the rope. Then there are two strands between the climbers and you have a double rope system, but you can only pitch out 25 or 30 meters. Viola, half rope on 5th class ground.

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I've rapped on an 8mm Mammut doubled through a reverso....VERY cafefully....I think 8 is the bottom limit for the Reverso according to their literature. Next time I will use my glove....it was VERY fast. I spent so much time worrying about losing control I perfectly positioned the rope in a crack where it got stuck upon pulling. Good times

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I've rapped on an 8mm Mammut doubled through a reverso....VERY cafefully....I think 8 is the bottom limit for the Reverso according to their literature. Next time I will use my glove....it was VERY fast. I spent so much time worrying about losing control I perfectly positioned the rope in a crack where it got stuck upon pulling. Good times

 

yelrotflmao.gif

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I've rapped on an 8mm Mammut doubled through a reverso....VERY cafefully....I think 8 is the bottom limit for the Reverso according to their literature. Next time I will use my glove....it was VERY fast. I spent so much time worrying about losing control I perfectly positioned the rope in a crack where it got stuck upon pulling. Good times

 

A woman from Washington died on Sir Donald last weekend rappelling with 8mm through a Reverso. thumbs_down.gifthumbs_down.gif

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A woman from Washington died on Sir Donald last weekend rappelling with 8mm through a Reverso.

 

Considering the web site says 8mm is fine for the reverso..shouldnt there be either a recall or some sort of saftey bulletin issued?

 

or did she not have it set up properly..or was she using a twin..? any idea?

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